- What: Tawse Winery.
Where: 3955 Cherry Ave., Vineland.
Winemaker: Paul Pender with Pascal Marchand as lead consultant. - What: Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery.
Where: 1469 Pelham Rd., St. Catharines.
Winemaker: Ron Giesbrecht. - What: Fielding Estate Winery
Where: 4020 Locust Lane, Beamsville
Winemaker: Richie Roberts
By Rick VanSickle
Living through the summer of 2009, with a steady stream of wet, cool weather, one could only wonder what would become of the wines made from grapes grown in that forgettable vintage.
I have tasted quite a few Rieslings from 2009 and, so far, am amazed at the quality these wines are showing. They are focused, fruity, mineral-laden and blessed with taut acidity. In fact, most of the aromatic whites being released now have been shockingly good considering what we went through in Niagara.
Now, the reds, they may not have fared quite so well, especially the Bordeaux varieties that won’t be released for a while yet. Look for many wineries to declassify grapes that would normally be destined for top cuvees. Already many producers have declared that they won’t make their top red wines, some for the second vintage in a row.
The early reviews of the Pinot Noirs, however, have been positive with some winemakers claiming superb wines were made in 2009, some of the best in recent memory. Time will tell.
In the meantime, enjoy the new wines that are being released fast and furiously at tasting rooms around Niagara.
Here’s a bunch I’ve tasted lately.
Tawse Sketches of Niagara Rose 2009 ($15, winery now or Vintages June 12, 3.5 stars) — Sketches of Niagara is a hugely successful line of wines from Tawse that has a big following through extensive LCBO exposure. This rose is a multi-red blend that is soft, delicate, lighter in colour than some roses and just a gorgeous, refreshing sip on a hot day with juicy red fruits in a dry style that ends in a pleasant finish.
Tawse Sketches of Niagara Chardonnay 2008 ($20, winery now, 3.5 stars) — A buttery-vanilla nose with apple and tropical fruits. Soft and creamy on the palate with spice and oak to go with fleshy fruits.
Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling 2009 ($18, winery now or Vintages on June 26, 4 stars) — Oh, so nice! Aromas of grapefruit, apple, quince and wet stone minerality. In the mouth it shows ripe citrus and peach flavours balanced out by racy acidity, a hallmark of the vintage. A playful tug of sweet fruits and mouth-puckering freshness make this irresistible.
Tawse Growers’ Blend Pinot Noir 2008 ($32, winery now or Vintages on July 24, 4.5 stars) — I’ve tasted this spectacular Pinot twice now, once on its own and another time served brilliantly with boneless grilled lamb loin, and can tell you that this is a must try wine. Wow, such vivid and intense cherry-raspberry fruits smothered in sweet spices and toasted cedar notes. It’s even better in the mouth with bramble and forest floor notes, cherry, cedar, spice all on a silky smooth frame and leading to a long, long finish. Impressive.
Fielding Estate Red Conception 2008 ($19, winery, web, 3.5 stars) — A whole pile of red grapes go into the Conception blend but the majority is Merlot. Smokey cherry, blackberry, spice and tar notes on the nose. It’s vibrant on the palate with some darker fruits and tamed tannins to go with wood smoke and licorice.
Fielding Estate Rock Pile Pinot Gris 2009 ($26, winery, web, 4.5 stars) — This is definitely made in the Alsatian style with ripe Bosc pear, apple and creamy-spicy notes on the nose. It’s a big and delicious, slightly off-dry Gris that invigorates the palate with apple, melon, pear and cream notes all supported by juicy acidity.
Henry of Pelham Pinot Blanc 2009 ($15, winery, Vintages, 3.5 stars) — An often overlooked variety that does so well in the right winemakers’ hands. McIntosh apple and melon aromas on the nose followed by juicy apple notes on the palate. A wonderfully fruity white for summer.
Henry of Pelham Gamay 2008 ($15, winery, Vintages, 3.5 stars) — Serve this red slightly chilled and enjoy the bright cherry fruit and subtle spice notes. A smooth and flavourful wine for back porch sipping with friends.
Henry of Pelham Riesling Reserve Off Dry 2008 ($16, winery, Vintages on May 29, 4 stars) — A ripe citrus and apple nose that’s fresh and inviting. It’s sweet and tart on the palate, with ripe fruit flavours competing with vibrant acidity that washes over the palate. A citrus-lemon fruit bomb with plenty of zest. Yummy!
Enjoy!
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