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A grand tasting with the chefs of Cuvée 2013 at the Fallsview Casino in Niagara Falls

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By Michael Lowe

The 25th anniversary of Cuvée, held March 1 at Fallsview Casino, was, in many ways, a celebration of the event’s roots. No wine awards, no long-winded speeches – just great wine and food served in grand style. In other words, and in many ways, a big step forward.

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CFWI’s chocolate Eiffel Tower showpiece

Ontario wineries poured their finest wines paired with spectacular dishes presented by some of Niagara’s culinary icons. Chef Stephen Treadwell, true to form, offered creations that echo his farm-to-table mantra. Sumptuous beef brisket, with a  band of melt-in-your-mouth fat, was served with smoked bacon potato dauphinoise accented by the “pop” of whole grain mustard.

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Treadwell’s beef brisket

Zees Grill plated up nori-wrapped albacore tuna with soba noodle salad and a delicious, crispy and savoury samosa. Both dishes were noteworthy because of the expert seasoning and a delicate kaleidoscope of flavours.

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Zees’ nori-wrapped tuna

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Zees’ samosa

Benchmark Restaurant and the Canadian Food and Wine Institute were represented by, among others, Chef Manager Bruce Worden and Chef Professor Tony DeLuca.

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Benchmark’s chilled lake trout with chili “roe” and chardonnay gelée

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Chef Professor Tony DeLuca plates “Vegan Chicken and Flapjacks”

Dishes included refreshingly cool and delicious trout, featuring a  non-fishy twist on fish roe, and a vegan dish with rosemary flapjacks topped with crispy seitan – faux chicken made from wheat gluten.

Another dish that had food nerds like me buzzing was a smoked meat “slider” with foie gras, fried quail egg and sauerkraut prepared by Chef Tim Mackiddie of Jackson-Triggs Estate Winery. It was an amazing rendition of comfort food that was, fittingly, all dressed up for the evening.

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Smoked meat “slider” with foie gras

Chef Chris Smythe of Escabèche restaurant in the Prince of Wales Hotel showed off a savory Canadian bison terrine on shortcrust pastry. Thank goodness there were plenty of robust red wines to pair with this one!

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Chef Chris Smythe of  Escabèche

And so the evening went, with attendees noshing on glorious culinary masterpieces while trying to pick their favorite wine and food pairings.

Let’s not forget about the sweets. Criveller Cakes was on hand again this year with a stunning display of culinary artwork including beautiful chocolate sculptures, cakes and handmade chocolates.

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Criveller’s display of sweets

And, as if all this were not enough, patrons wrapped up the night by quaffing beer from Niagara craft brewers, sipping sparkling wines and dancing at the Après Cuvée party. What a fantastic way to close a night of celebration of the best of Ontario food and wine.