Dramatic icewine program gets its flair from winemaker

What: Pillitteri Estates Winery
Where: 1696 Niagara Stone Rd., Niagara-on-the-Lake
Tastings: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily
Proprietor: The Pillitteri family
Winemaker: Marc Phillip Bradshaw
Speciality: Charlie Pillitteri has travelled the world to open up markets for his family’s extensive icewine program. While most wineries have cut back on icewine production for various reasons, Pillitteri has maintained production, more than 90% of which is exported. This winery boasts the most diverse portfolio of icewines in the world and the largest estate producer — 30,000 cases in 2008 — of these wines in Canada.
Must try: The icewine program is extraordinary and hard to pick a favourite. I would strongly recommend, however, the Cabernet Sparkling Icewine 2008.
Availability: Winery, LCBO/ Vintages or website.
Website: www.pillitteri.com

By Rick VanSickle

Before Marc P. Bradshaw even speaks you sense his Aussie-ness. Bold and brash and wearing a short-sleeved shirt (even though it’s -14°C outside) and thick neck beads, he is no ordinary master of wine. But it’s a perfect fit for Pillitteri.

Bradshaw, who has a Ph. D. in chemistry and almost became a forensic scientist, wandered the world helping others make wine until finally settling in Niagara, becoming winemaker at Pillitteri in 2006.

His experimentations in the winery have helped Pillitteri establish itself as one of the world’s most recognizable producers of icewine with more than 500 medals garnered at various competitions in the world. In fact, it is the largest estate icewine producer in Canada with 30,000 cases of icewine made in 2008 alone.

And it is also a leader in innovation. Along with traditional single-varietal icewines such as Vidal, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, Bradshaw, 36, has introduced Shiraz and Sangiovese icewines as well as a sensational sparkling Cabernet blended icewine, and both a red and white multi-blend icewine that keeps the family business at the forefront of inventiveness.

More than 50% of Pillitteri’s business is icewine and 90% of that is exported to other countries.

One might think that icewine is suffering from a dwindling market with production in Niagara cut from 6,700 tonnes in 2008 to 1,700 tonnes in 2009.

But Lucy Pillitteri-Friesen, who heads up marketing for the family, says their production has not suffered one bit from the over-supply. In fact, for the first time, Pillitteri has bought up some of the unsold icewine grapes to help maintain the 30,000 case production that is predominantly grown at the family’s 200 acres of vines spread throughout Niagara.

A lot of that can be attributed to CEO Charles Pillitteri’s relentless quest to open up new markets in China and even Russia for the sweet nectar that is Canada’s greatest gift to the world.

I love the Pillitteri style of icewines under the careful guidance of Bradshaw. He strives for a “lean style, bright and fresh with great acidity,” he said while tasting some of the new releases.

Pillitteri-Friesen added, “Marc’s not afraid to be innovative” with new wines such as the sparkling red, a Sangiovese icewine and the new blended wines. “We want that Aussie flair to shine through.”

As for Bradshaw, he says there’s no recipe for making great wine. “It’s the last great art form,” he said. “Ninety per cent of what I do is done on the palate.”

With just over two weeks to get out and celebrate the Niagara Icewine Festival, running until Jan. 31, you might want to hustle down to Pillitteri and get a taste of the very best in sweet wines.

Pillitteri Riesling Icewine 2007 ($50 for 375 ml, currently sold out, 4.5 stars) — This defines the Pillitteri style. Bright, lively with bracing acidity to match sweet and intense peach, citrus and petrol notes, just now showing up on the nose. “Everything travels on the acidity spine,” says Bradshaw. “For me, that’s key.”

Pillitteri “Sweet Blonde” 2008 Icewine (Price to be determined, 4 stars) — Sweet Blonde is the working name for this brand-new white blend icewine made from Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Semillon. The fruits are complex and intense on the nose with sweet, stewed stone fruit that turns more tropical and honied on the palate. Such a long finish. Would be worth watching this as it ages.

Pillitteri Sparkling Cabernet Icewine 2008 ($80 for 375 ml, 5 stars, winery only) — A rare gem of a wine. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and a “smidgen” of Merlot. Bradshaw was excited by Charlie Pillitteri’s enthusiasm when he proposed a “sparkly” red for the portfolio. They both love sparkling wines so it was a “no brainer.” This has it all. Raspberry, cherry, sweet apple all perched on an electric frame of fresh acidity that keeps it dancing on the palate. It’s long-lived on the palate and the final verdict is a memorable and enthralling wine.

Pillitteri Sticky Beak Icewine 2007 ($80 for 375 ml, sold out, 4 stars) — A wild and crazy red blend of Cabernet Sauvingon, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz and a touch of Sangiovese from the only three rows of this grape the family owns. It’s a sticky all right, with sweet red fruits, broad on the palate, rich and layered and perfectly mature. Almost like a warm and smoochy goodnight kiss from someone you just met. Yes, really.

Enjoy!