Some fine wines from the last greatest vintage ever

While wine producers throughout Niagara are doing an excitable vineyard jig as they haul in the GREATEST VINTAGE EVER, there are still plenty of wines still being released from the last GREATEST VINTAGE EVER, 2007.

The biggest of the biggest wines are still coming to market from the wonderful 2007 vintage even as attention turns to the 2010 crop that hasn’t even been bottled yet and likely won’t hit the shelves for two years or more, especially for the big red varieties.

As most wine lovers already know, 2007 produced some of the most profound reds ever made in Niagara but some of the aromatic whites have proven to be ripe but fleshy and a little unbalanced and made for early consumption.

For lovers of Riesling, look to the amazing 2009 vintage for balanced, flavourful and acidic whites that will stand the test of time.

As for the 2010 harvest, the first grapes started to be picked on Aug. 25 and it hasn’t stopped since. Tawse winemaker Paul Pender was hauling in wines for his sparkling program a full month ahead of 2009.

Niagara-on-the-Lake grape grower Matthias Oppenlaender told The Standard’s Monique Beech that if September weather holds up with sunny skies, this year’s vintage could be the best he can recall.

It’s the same story across all appellations in Niagara. Flat Rock Cellars picked its Pinot Noir three weeks ahead of last year and Hidden Bench mentioned on Twitter that the Riesling harvest in 2009 started on Oct. 3 while this year’s Pinot Noir harvest began on Sept. 3.

Henry of Pelham sent a note to its subscribers that the harvest was in full swing on Aug. 30, two weeks ahead of schedule.

Paul Speck, of Henry of Pelham, said in an email that 2010 “looks like one of the best quality years ever, which is great since we are bettering some of best like 2007! It reminds me of benchmark years like 1991, 1995, 1998 and 2002.”

While we wait to see if all the positive predictions about 2010 come true, there are still lots of delicious 07s being released on the red side and some truly amazing 09 Rieslings and aromatic whites. Here’s the best of what I’ve tasted lately:

Fielding Estate Meritage 2007 ($60, winery only, 4.5-5 stars) — A shockingly good blend of Merlot (62%), Cabernet Sauvignon (34%) and a touch of Cabernet Franc all from estate vineyards. This is a big, bold and exciting red, among the best Fielding has produced, and certainly one of the top reds made in Niagara in 2007.

The nose starts with roasted meats, currants, black licorice, plums, toasty oak, coffee bean and savoury spices. There’s so much happening in this wine but it is the elegance of oak and fine tannins that defines it on the palate. Add to that a mélange of red fruits, cassis, mocha, vanilla, and earth on a firm and structured frame, and you have a mind-blowing red built for the cellar. A brilliant wine.

Fielding Estate Viognier 2009 ($31, winery and on-line, 4 stars) — The inviting nose starts with pear preserve, wild honey, peach and sweet, exotic spice. It’s lush, round and fleshy on the palate but finishes with juicy acidity to balance out the residual sugars.

Tawse David’s Block Cabernet Franc 2007 ($48, wine club members only, 4.5 stars) — With very limited production (832 bottles), this thrilling Cab Franc is only made available to wine club members. The nose starts with dense black cherry, wild blueberry and currants all backed up by spice and oak. On the palate there’s a nice sweet tobacco leaf note to go with all that ripe fruit and spice.

Tawse Hughes Vineyard Merlot 2007 ($45, wine club only, 4 stars) — Another wine club exclusive but worth mentioning here. The nose excites with black currants, plums, cherry-kirsch notes, violets and mocha spice. It shows power and youthful exuberance on the palate with a range of flavours and spice to go with a long finish. One to lay down for a few years in the cellar.

Tawse Quarry Road Riesling 2009 ($22, Vintages, 3.5-4 stars) — Pure citrus-apple aromas with a defining mineral core on the nose. Shows rousing citrus zest and Twenty Mile Bench appellation wet stone minerality on the palate to go with a crisp, fresh finish.

Chateau des Charmes Generation Seven White 2009 ($14, LCBO, 3.5 stars) — This is Chateau des Charmes’ first foray into the growing “lifestyle wine” category now filling up the shelves at the LCBO. This a nice multi-variety blend from estate fruit with pleasant aromas of citrus, melon, peach and lime. Lots of punch on the palate with a citrus-lime core and added peach-melon flavours. 50 cents from every sale is being donated to the Meal Exchange, a national youth-driven charity.

Chateau des Charmes Generation Seven Red 2009 ($14, LCBO, 3.5 stars) — A total of five red grape varieties go into this blend. Savoury-spicy-meaty notes on the nose with smoky dark fruits. Nice berry fruit on the palate with vanilla and light oak and savoury spice through the finish.

Enjoy.