By Rick VanSickle
BALA, Ont. — The tiny berries, still green in the summer heat, spring from the bog we’re standing on that will soon be flooded for the harvest that takes place every fall here.
It’s a unique taste of Muskoka, a local pleasure in the heart of Ontario’s cottage country, which will see cranberries turned into a wonderful collection of wines that is starting to turn heads not only with the locals, but throughout Ontario where it’s now widely distributed at the LCBO.
The Johnston family has been growing and harvesting cranberries in Bala since 1950 when Orville and June Johnston’s dream of a thriving cranberry industry in Ontario, with Muskoka at its centre, came to life.
The original idea was to grow and sell the cranberries. It wasn’t until 2000, with son Murray and his wife Wendy, that Muskoka Lakes Winery was launched with the first vintage of Cranberry Wine.
It sold out in 16 days followed by a release of the 2000 Cranberry Blueberry Wine, which sold out in four days.
The winery has been running successfully ever since then, with the Johnstons adding a large collection of different fruit wines to the portfolio.
The winery was named after the region because the Johnstons believe strongly in the idea of “terroir†— that wine should express the land that produced it. Having been growers in Muskoka for half a century, the Johnstons wanted to create a product that reflected the rugged beauty of the region. Working mainly with fruit native to Muskoka (and some wild blueberries from Northern Ontario), the winery now boasts a range of award winning wines from dry to dessert and even some that are now aged in oak.
There are only three commercial cranberry farms in Ontario with one other farm in Muskoka and another in the Ottawa area. The berries love the acid-rich soils of more northern climes and grow best on peat or sand.
The cranberries are relatively easy to grow in the marsh but labour-intensive when harvest occurs in late fall. The bogs are flooded using a series of dams during harvest to allow the berries to rise to the surface. A huge machine harvests the floating berries, dries them quickly and they are sorted into wine fruit or commercial berries.
A third of the crop is used for wine and the rest is sold as cranberries either for the fruit or to other fruit wine makers and juice companies.
The winery employs five full-time staff, five seasonal staff and use about 40 other workers during the harvest.
There are several different wines and juices made at the winery including Wild Blueberry Wine (from blueberries sourced in northern Ontario), an oak-aged Wild Blueberry Wine, Cranberry Wine, a Cranberry-Blueberry Wine (their most popular), a White Cranberry Wine, Framberge (a sweet Raspberry-Cranberry wine) and a special Red Maple Wine (with a shot of maple syrup). See Rick’s Picks for reviews of the wines.
The winery and farm is open year-round for tasting, tours and a range of family acitivities. For more information go to: Cranberry.
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The Muskokas have always been an escape from the hustle and bustle and city life. But more and more, local food, wine and even beer has found its way into the experience of cottage life.
Just down the road from Bala, about a 20-minute drive, in beautiful downtown Bracebridge, the Muskoka Cottage Brewery has been crafting wonderful brews since 1996.
The brewery is a true “craft brewery†and uses only barley, hops, yeast and water in the production of a range of beers. No additives or preservatives are used.
The brewery was founded by Gary McMullen and Kirk Evans and now employs a team of 18, all dedicated to providing the finest experience in hand crafted beer.
On a tour of the brewery, with marketing manager Mike Laba, the notion of fresh beer is at the centre of everything the brewery does.
“Fresh beer is heaven and earth,†says Laba.
As if on cue, as we walk through the production area of the brewery, a couple of workers are dumping cans of beer that were past the due date. While it’s sad to see good beer go down the drain, it’s also crucial for quality breweries to maintain the integrity and natural freshness of their beers.
Laba explains that craft beer is like perishable food. Each can of beer made at Muskoka Cottage Brewery is labeled with “enjoy before” date. “No codes, no mysteries – we want you to taste fresh beer every time.â€
Muskoka Cottage Brewery follows the same principals as all 24 craft breweries in Ontario, which are all committed to a quality product.
The brewery makes five different beers, all in cans, plus special seasonal beers that are made in special bottles. As well, different draughts are made available at dozens of bars around the country.
The five beers include the Cream Ale, Pilsner Light, Premium Lager, Dark Ale and Hefe Weissbier (wheat style beer). A wonderful Harvest Ale, made to celebrate the harvest, is available for a limited time in a special bottle.
All the beers are widely available at Beer Stores and the LCBO.
For more information, go to: Muskoka Brewery
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For a taste of Muskoka — the wonderful fruit wines from Bala or the delicious natural beers made in Bracebridge — you don’t have to go travel there, but it definitely is a treat to drink local whenever you have the chance.
Both the craft wines and beers from Muskoka Lakes Winery and Muskoka Cottage Brewery are widely available through the LCBO or Beer Store, but there’s nothing quite like buying and enjoying these treats right in Muskoka.
I spent a weekend this summer tasting through the wines and beers of Muskoka. Here’s what I liked:
Muskoka Lakes Winery Wild Blueberry Wine 2008 ($19) — The berries for this wine are brought in from Northern Ontario. This is a dry wine with cassis-blueberry fruit that’s jammy, but backed up by juicy acidity. Try with lamb or roast pork.
Muskoka Lakes Winery Oak-aged Wild Blueberry Wine 2008 ($20) — The winery has been experimenting with oak-aged wine lately. The result is this complex berry wine with notes of toasted oak, vanilla, cassis and stewed blueberry. It’s fresh and pleasing on the palate with some tannic structure but not aggressive. Pair with roast beef, pepper steak or leg of lamb.
Muskoka Lakes Winery Cranberry Wine 2009 ($14, LCBO) — Big, fruity nose of cranberry and apple fruit. It’s tart and fresh in the mouth with sour cherry-apple flavours and some tannins. Pair with pork or game meat, or even Thanksgiving meals.
Muskoka Lakes Winery Cranberry-Blueberry Wine 2008 ($17, LCBO) — This is the winery’s most popular wine. It’s a 50-50 blend with a balanced fruit attack of blueberry and cranberry in an off-dry style. Very friendly, enjoyable fruit wine that pairs well with chicken and sweet and sour dishes.
Muskoka Lakes Winery White Cranberry Wine 2008 ($14) — A lighter, more floral, honey-sweet wine made from a limited supply of white cranberries. It’s slightly sweeter than the other wines with a touch less acidity. Try with soft cheeses, poached fish, or lightly seasoned chicken.
Muskoka Lakes Framberge Non Vintage ($23 for 375 ml) — A lovely sweet wine with jammy black cherry and kirsch flavours. It’s a blend of raspberries and cranberries and finished in a sweet style. Serve chilled and match with dark chocolate. Yummy!
Muskoka Cottage Brewery Pilsner Light ($2.65 for 473 ml, Brewery) — This is the fullest bodied light (4% alcohol) beer in the province. It’s crisp, clean and smooth on the palate with subtle malt and hop flavours.
Muskoka Cottage Brewery Cream Ale ($2.65 for 473 ml, LCBO, Beer Store) — This is the signature beer (and first beer made) at the brewery. It’s has delicious barley notes, a hint of sweetness and malt balance. Drink this with everything off the BBQ, but it’s especially nice with rack of ribs.
Muskoka Cottage Brewery Hefe Weissbier ($2.65 for 473 ml, LCBO, Beer Store) — Unfiltered and naturally hazy in the glass this wheat-style beer has a wonderful sweet citrus nose and a touch of spice. The flavours are distinct with hints of banana, citrus and hops. A unique experience.
Muskoka Cottage Brewery Harvest Ale ($8 a bottle for 750 ml, LCBO) — A big (6.5% alcohol) seasonal beer (at the LCBO until it runs out) marks the end of the growing season and the gathering of crops from the fields. Brewed using premium local ingredients, it has a rich, amber colour, and strong natural flavours of hops and malt. It’s big and flavourful, a treat for fall drinking.
Enjoy!
Thanks for the photo credit dad :)