A simple plan for 2011: More Riesling

As we gaze into that proverbial crystal ball, as us silly prognosticators like to do at this time of the year, there is plenty to look forward to but also a lot of work ahead for the Niagara wine industry.

So, with that in mind, we offer some predictions, resolutions, hopes, dreams and just plain wishful thinking for 2011 and beyond.

Let’s start with the same resolution made nearly every year since I began writing a wine column (a long time, by the way).

DRINK MORE RIESLING — Yes, we all need to appreciate this grape more. Niagara makes world-class Rieslings yet the world doesn’t know about it yet. We have to tell them. Riesling is the one variety that does well throughout Niagara without fail each and every vintage. And nothing, absolutely nothing, shows off the terroir of the appellation or a particular vineyard more than Riesling does whether it’s Vinemount Ridge, St. David’s Bench, Fox Croft Vineyard, Cave Spring Vineyard, Butler’s Grant, Wismer Vineyard or dozens of other vineyard specific wines. So, my plan is to drink more Riesling and to tell you about it. You’ve been warned.

STYLE OVER SUBSTANCE — There was a lot of discussion in 2010 over the many different styles and experimentation that many winemakers are exploring. Appassimento (drying of the grapes), use of kilns (again, for drying the grapes), oaked Sauvignon Blancs, barrel fermented Viogniers and Pinot Gris, 100% botrytised (a fungus that concentrates the sugars) affected grapes in Riesling and Creekside’s so-called “uber” wines. Two trains of thought here. We should be concentrating on defining the Niagara style, not branching out in crazy directions. It just confuses consumers. The other, the one I subscribe to, is why not? We are maturing as a winemaking region and with that comes brighter, bolder, better winemakers who want to strut their stuff. Go ahead, make our day.

VQA STORES — Why are we still talking about this? Why doesn’t the government see the beauty in VQA-only wine stores in Ontario? Isn’t this a win-win for every consumer in Ontario? Better access to Ontario wines, better sales for Ontario wines, an opportunity for those wineries who can’t get their products into the government-run LCBO, and a showcase for Ontario wines in locations that benefit the bottom line for everyone involved. I ask again, why are we still talking about this and not doing something about it?

FREEMYGRAPES.CA — It is one of the most egregious and outdated laws in Canada today. Do you realize it is illegal to order Canadian wines directly from an out-of-province winery and have them shipped to your home? We can’t order a six-pack of wine from B.C. or Nova Scotia and Ontario wineries can’t legally ship wine to consumers in other provinces because of a federal law that hasn’t changed since 1928. It’s ridiculous that under this law, taking a bottle of wine (and beer, by the way) across a provincial boundary could stick you with a criminal record. I urge you to log on to FreeMyGrapes and sign the petition that asks the government of Canada to fix a law that’s been outdated for decades.

SPONTANEOUS TASTINGS — The greatest trend in wine that I witnessed in 2010 was the spontaneous tasting phenomenon. They were, for the most part, fuelled by social media — Facebook or Twitter — and made it possible for dozens, in some cases hundreds of people, to taste wines together via their laptops, iPhones, Blackberries etc. Some of the best tastings I attended were with groups of people who simply love wine getting together to try several bottles of a certain variety (Pinot Gris, Cab-Merlot, Viognier etc.). The tastings led to lively discussions that were shared via Twitter. A neat idea that will grow in popularity as social media continues to be the catalyst for wine’s explosive growth.

WE ALL SCREAM FOR CHARDONNAY — Chardonnay, especially the cool-climate style of Chardonnay, will be front and centre this summer in Niagara when a group of 26 Ontario vintners, led by Hidden Bench’s owner, Harald Thiel, will stage the first International Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration (i4C). The three-day event July 22-24 at Niagara College, will highlight 45 wineries, including 15 from Canada, 15 from other new world wine producers and 15 wineries from traditional or old world wine producers, such as France. The staging of this massive undertaking has the potential to do more for Ontario wines than anything ever before. We applaud this great initiative.

A DREAM, A HOPE AND A WISH — If I had just one wish, it would be this: Start enjoying the wines we have in our own backyard. Not because it’s the right thing to do but because they are simply outstanding wines made by the hands of passionate farmers and winemakers. Drink them because they are good, not because it’s trendy to do so. Love them for what they are and not because you’re bullied into it. We are beyond all that now.

Enjoy!