Well, another Niagara Icewine Festival has come and gone. It was three weeks of intense sweetness matched with tantalizing foods.
Everyone was invited to the party, of course, to share a magical few weeks in a winter wonderland that included glitzy galas, ice bars, winery tours and lots of icewine and food.
There’s no question, Niagara is getting better and better at celebrating that golden nectar called icewine.
I would have to say that the festival’s marquee event, the sold-out Xerox Red Hot & Ice Gala, with a packed house of revellers, all decked out in their finest black ties and flowing gowns, has quickly become one of the major wine events of the year in Niagara.
The evening featured more than 30 wineries, pouring exquisite icewines and matching them to Niagara cuisine prepared by the Fallsview Casino’s Golden Lotus and 17 Noir restaurants.
It was a classy affair with gorgeous styling in the room, icewine thematics, excellent entertainment and superb food and wine pairings.
I was impressed with the vast assortment of icewines being crafted in Niagara. Where once Vidal and Riesling were the two main varieties, that’s no longer the case. Wineries are spreading their wings with interesting sweet wines made from every grape you can imagine.
I welcome the diversity but also caution that consumers here have vastly different palates than the thirsty, sweet-toothed Asian market, where a lot of our icewines are sold. The key to good icewine is the fresh acidity needed to balance out those super-rich sweet flavours in the mouth. The viscous, wild honey notes need to be offset with acid to cut down on the cloying sensation. Balance is key.
Tasting through dozens and dozens of icewines in the past month has left me with a better appreciation for the creativity of the winemakers who are offering up more than just Vidal and Riesling (not that there’s anything wrong with those classic styles). Here’s some I’ve enjoyed lately:
The small, family-operated Virgil winery, Caroline Cellars, makes wines (both from grapes and other fruits) exclusively from estate grapes. The family has a history of growing grapes and only started their own winery in the summer of 2002.
The winery has a complete portfolio of well-priced wines (only available at the winery) including a diverse and large selection of late harvest and icewines.
Caroline Cellars Riesling Icewine 2008 ($36, 375 ml, 4 stars) — Fresh McIntosh apple, bursts of sweet citrus, peach and honey on the nose. The sweet apple fruit is balanced out on the palate by moderate acidity and added orange and peach flavours.
Caroline Cellars Vidal Icewine 2007 ($26, 375 ml, 3.5-4 stars) — Aromas of poached pear, candied tropical fruit, creme brulee and showing some maturity. It’s lush, fleshy and creamy in the mouth with almonds, fruit compote and honey notes. For near-term drinking.
Caroline Cellars Sauvingon Blanc Icewine 2009 ($48, 375 ml, 4.5 stars) — An exotic variety for icewine, to be sure, but it’s a refreshing change in this category. Sweet citrus, peach, kiwi, star fruit and honeycomb on the nose. It’s thick and rich on the palate, which may seem odd considering the grape, but it all comes together in the mouth.
Caroline Cellars Chardonnay Icewine 2009 ($42, 375 ml, 4.5 stars) — Another exotic icewine from this daring winery. Very different aromas of peach, tropical fruit and wild honey. It’s full, unctuous and rich in the mouth with candied fruit, apple and creamy notes from start to finish. Yummy stuff. Seriously.
A couple of other sweet wines to consider:
Calamus Special Select Late Harvest Vidal 2009 ($23, 375 ml, winery, 4 stars) — A great price for this late harvest Vidal done in the classic style. Sweet citrus, honey and peach notes on the nose. Apricot, peach, grapefruit and a moderately sweet honey note in the mouth is followed by cleansing acidity through the finish.
Tawse Riesling Icewine 2009 ($35, 200 ml, April release, 4.5 stars) — Waves of tropical-citrus fruit on the nose. It’s layered and expressive on the palate with lemon-lime meringue pie flavours and a playful tug-of-war between super sweet and tart fruits, a result of firm, fresh acidity. A refined, layered, fruit bomb with gorgeous balance.
And some other wines to enjoy:
Calamus StarStruck Sparkling Wine ($20, winery, 4 stars) — Made in the German sekt style of bubbly with sweet lime and creamy pear notes on the nose. Lively mousse on the palate with semi-sweet citrus fruit flavours and bright acidity. Lovely aperitif. Interesting to note this is the second sparkling wine in Niagara to use the crown cap enclosure.
Calamus Red 2008 ($16, not yet released, 3.5 stars) — A medium-weight red blend with currants, black cherry, blackberry, mocha and soft oak on the nose. It’s a pleasurable sipper, but made in a lighter style with soft tannins and fruit forward flavours.
Tawse Van Bers Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2008 ($48, winery, 4 stars) — Pure expression of black cherry, spice and oak on the nose. Beautiful flavours on the palate with rich, creamy cassis, red fruits and sweet spices. Firm acidity balances it all out.
Enjoy!
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