Cab Francs from 08 a delightful surprise

The Cabernet Francs from the somewhat difficult 2008 growing season in Niagara have turned out to be a delightful surprise.

While many wineries declassified a lot of their top Bordeaux varietal fruit, or simply cut down on yields and/or dropped prices on the 2008s, many are proving to be well worth the buy.

The best are sumptuous with classic cool climate Cab Franc flavours in a leaner style than wines made from warmer, drier vintages. They aren’t built for long-term drinking but are perfectly delightful upon release or with a couple years of cellaring.

A recent sweep through Niagara found some excellent examples from the 2008 vintage. Here’s what I liked:

Lailey Cabernet Franc 2008 ($30, 4 stars) — Very small production (97 cases) of this followup to the completely different 2007 version. The fruit was taken from the ripest, oldest blocks in the estate vineyards and yields drastically cut back. As winemaker Derek Barnett explained, it’s more Chinon (Loire Valley, France) in style than anything else. It’s lean and elegant with crushed red berry fruits, lovely texture, integrated spice and balance.

Peller Estates Signature Series Cabernet Franc 2008 ($38, 4.5 stars) — Peller only made one Signature Series red wine in 2008 and this is it. The fruit for this Cab Franc spent 20 months in 50% new French and American oak. It shows wonderful black cherry and currant fruit on the nose to go with vanilla, a touch of roasted herbs and spice. Love the fruit on the palate but still shows restraint and elegance.

Thirty Bench Small Lot Cabernet Franc 2008 (4 stars, $40) — From hand-picked estate fruit that was barrel-aged in 100% French oak for 18 months. The nose is all about mocha-blackberry-cherry, vanilla, cassis preserve and cigar-box cedar. On the palate the rich fruits meld nicely with the charred oak, roasted vanilla bean and plush tannins.

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Touring around Niagara recently I found some interesting wine and food combinations and some delicious new wines being poured. Here are some highlights:

Hidden Bench Estate Riesling 2008 ($26) served with Raclette — How exciting to run into the owner of Hidden Bench, Harald Thiel, at his winery with apron on making his special raclette from Niagara Gold cheese made at Upper Canada Cheese Company (which he also owns). And what a glorious pairing with the peach and citrus notes of this wonderful everyday Riesling.

Niagara Gold is an Oka-style semi-soft, washed rind cheese with nutty, earthy, buttery flavours that are amplified when melted and served with double-smoked pork loin and Yukon Gold potatoes.

Sue-Ann Staff Estate Baco Noir 2008 ($16) paired with a “manly” slice of Belgian chocolate dipped bacon — Yes, the heavens collided at Sue Ann’s winery with three of my most favourite things in the world all coming together in one taste sensation. And what a treat it was to sip the smoky, meaty Staff Baco and chase it with a hunk of crispy bacon slathered inBelgium chocolate, a creation made by Toute Sweet Ice Cream and Chocolate. Dreams do come true.

Fielding Estate Chardonnay Musque 2010 ($17, 3.5 stars) — Great to see some early wines from the ripe and hot 2010 vintage starting to arrive. Chardonnay Musque is a fun spring-summer wine with ripe aromas of spiced apple, peach and melon. It’s round and juicy on the palate with fruit salad flavours and a touch of sweetness.

Fielding Estate Rose 2010 ($16, 3.5 stars) — A fun wine that’s a blend of four different red varietals. Aromas and flavours range from cran-cherry and tangerine to apple and fresh strawberries. A perfect, slightly off-dry, summer sipper.

Ravine Vineyard Gewurztraminer 2009 ($22, 4.5 stars) — Stunning Gewurz from this small St. Davids winery. It starts on the nose with beautiful pear, grapefruit, lychee, spice and honey notes. It’s broad and caressing on the palate with a lovely sweet combination of fruit, honey and spice that’s balanced, and not all over the top, through the finish.

Ravine Vineyard Riesling 2009 ($28, 4.5 stars) — This partially botrytis-affected Riesling is dangerously good. Thankfully, it’s finished with barely 10% alcohol so when you go to refill your glass over and over, you can do so without feeling too guilty. What a fabulous wine! It gushes with honeycomb, peach, lime cordial and melon that carries on through the palate. A truly unique wine that tops the previous great Rieslings made at this property.

Thirty Bench Small Lot Merlot 2008 ($40, 4 stars) — The nose is just a tad closed at the moment but shows soft red berries, plum, cedar and spice. On the palate the fruits open up with blackberry and cherry mingling with vanilla, mocha and oak. Elegantly styled Merlot.

Enjoy!