Chances are, on any given day of the week, you’ll find Derek Barnett pouring his wines for anyone who comes through the doors at Lailey Vineyard or in the barrel room tinkering, blending, tasting.
And if the winemaker isn’t at Lailey, it’s likely he’s on the road somewhere exposing his wines to as wide an audience as he can.
I don’t think you’ll find anyone as passionate and hard working as Barnett or as visible on the wine circuit. He’s the kind of guy who likes to sell his wines person to person, so they understand exactly what they are getting.
And that means a bottle of hand-crafted wine made from estate (or from trusted grower) grapes, most of which comes right from the vineyards you can see out the back windows of the winery.
On a recent trek through the wine country, I popped into Lailey to taste whatever was new on the shelves (or just recently bottled).
Of course I ran into Barnett who was only too happy to pour.
Here’s what I liked of the current or upcoming vinatages:
Lailey Vineyard Lot 48 Pinot Noir 2009 ($60, April release, 5 stars) — It’s a bit unfair to review this young wine that’s only recently been bottled, but I only see upside for this stunning Pinot made from purchased Bench fruit. Lot 48 is only made by Barnett is the very best vintages and loyal Lailey customers have already purchased 30% of the wine through a “futures” program. This is wonderful stuff. Pure cherry, vanilla spice and toasty oak on the nose. But the true pedigree of this wine shows itself on the palate. Such a ripe core of red fruit and wonderful silky texture in the mouth, with perfect spice and oak nuances. Interesting all the way through the finish.
Lailey Vineyard Brickyard Pinot Noir 2009 ($35, April release, 4.5 stars) — The Brickyard is small estate, sustainably farmed vineyard that showcases perfectly both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Only 140 cases of this wine were produced and you may want to be at Lailey when it’s released. What a fantastic Pinot! Pretty aromatics that show fresh-picked cherries, raspberries and touches of pomegranate, spice and subtle oak tones. It’s just so silky smooth on the palate with forward red fruits and integrated spice already. A beauty.
Lailey Vineyard Pinot Noir 2009 ($25, winery, 4 stars) — Even this entry level Pinot, a blend of several vineyards, is a superb example of Lailey’s craftsmanship with this grape. A nose of cherry-cranberry fruit, cloves and vanilla. Again, classic Pinot texture in the mouth with gorgeous red fruits and generously spiced from sip to swallow.
Lailey Vineyard Meritage 2008 ($25, winery, 3.5-4 stars) — Almost equal amounts of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvingon and Cabernet Franc. Of course, not as thick and concentrated as the 2007 Meritage (which cost $35) but a nice red nonetheless. The nose shows currants, wild berries and spice which carry to the palate. A nice food-friendly red with juicy acidity and delicious fruit flavours through the finish.
Lailey Vineyard Riesling 2010 ($18, April release, 4 stars) — A bit unfair to review this young wine, but it was impressive for a warm vintage Riesling. Shows good freshness on the nose with floral, tropical, citrus notes. On the palate the crisp citrus-lime fruits are complimented by stony minerality. Will be a fine Riesling when ready.
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I also dropped in on Peter Bodnar Rod, sommelier and sales-marketing manager for 13th Street Winery, to taste some 2009 releases. Here are a few I can highly recommend.
13th Street Cuvee Rose NV ($25, winery only for now, 4 stars) — A lovely traditional method sparkling wine with pretty strawberry and cherry fruits on the nose to go with light toasty notes. It’s fresh on the palate with a vigorous mousse and bright, freshening acidity.
13th Street June’s Vineyard Unoaked Chardonnay 2009 ($20, winery, 4 stars) — This is the first vintage for this single-vineyard Chard, fashioned after the wines of Chablis. Shows fresh green apple and a touch of citrus on the nose. Lovely mineral note to go with the crisp apple flavours.
13th Street Gewurztraminer 2009 ($20, winery, 3.5 stars) — Sweet perfume, lychee, grapefruit and spice on the nose of this smartly priced Gewurz. Shows decent acidity on the palate, often lacking in Niagara Gewurz, and retains the rich flavours you want from the variety. Made in a dry style.
13th Street Gamay Noir Sandstone Vineyard Old Vines 2009 ($28, winery, 4.5 stars) — A n expressive nose of earthy blueberry-bramble fruit with cassis and lavish spices. The fruits explode on the palate and everything is all balanced out by firm acidity. 13th Street is one of the few wineries in Niagara that excels with this varietal.
13th Street Syrah 2009 ($28, winery, 4 stars) — A very young Syrah with bold dark fruits backed up by black peppercorns and oak-inspired spice. The palate reveals rich, ripe blackberry fruits, a touch of cherry and spice on a firm bed of tannins. Buy, cellar and hold for a few years.
Enjoy!
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