Fizz, sparkling, bubbly, cava, sekt, prosecco, cremant, and, of course, dare it be uttered outside of France, Champagne. Sparkling wines made anywhere but the region of Champagne are called many different things and are made in many different styles. But the one thing they all have in common is the joy those tiny bubbles bring to us when the sparkle hits the palate.
There is no question that Champagne is the benchmark for all the world’s sparkling wines but that hasn’t stopped other wine regions from producing some form of bubbly.
In Canada — from Nova Scotia to B.C., from Niagara to Prince Edward County to Lake Erie North Shore — bubbly is becoming an important style for winery portfolios.
It all started in Canada in1989 with Sumac Ridge in the Okanagan Valley making the earliest sparkling wine commercially produced in Canada. Sumac still produces one of this country’s finest sparklers — Steller’s Jay Brut.
But it has a lot of competition made in a dizzying array of styles and varieties.
The only grapes allowed in Champagne are chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier, and while Canadian wineries often use those same grapes, there is much more diversity in our styles. From sweet, dry and rose style to sparkling gewurztraminer and riesling (even sauvignon blanc) to styles made with a shot of icewine.
Our little Twitter tasting group, made up of wine writers, bloggers, sommeliers, consumers and winemakers, got together at the gorgeous Canoe restaurant in Toronto for our fourth in a series of Canadian “Twastings,” following up from tastings of 2002 cab-merlot, pinot gris and viognier. Using the hashtag #tinybubbles, about 20 of us tasted over 30 bubblies from across the nation while enjoying a spectacular view of Toronto from the 54th floor of the Toronto Dominion Bank Tower where Canoe is located. I would suspect this was the largest collection of Canadian sparkling wines tasted together outside of a wine judging competition.
It was a pleasure to see the diversity across the country.
It was the first time I had tasted sparklers being made in Nova Scotia’s Gaspereau Valley.
Two producers — L’Acadia Vineyards and Benjamin Bridge — are making sparkling wines in the traditional Champagne method and produce serious, wonderful wines with classic aromas and flavours.
Most of the well-known Canadian sparkling labels were part of the tasting, including Henry of Pelham, Chateau des Charmes, Jackson-Triggs, Trius, Sumac Ridge and Blue Mountain, it was also nice to try some new kids on the block including Huff Estates, Summerhill, Hinterland, and both Vineland Estate and Fielding entering the fray with sparkling rieslings.
Some of the sparklers were serious examples of this fabulous style while others were just nice friendly sippers to enjoy on the back deck or with friends in an informal setting.
While the Champagne style of wine, basically produced by inducing secondary fermentation in the bottle, may have been invented by Benedictine Monks in the Abbey of Saint Hilaire near Carcassonne in 1531 (some contend it was first made by Dom Perignon), the style now belongs to the world. And Canada has done well to ride the wave.
Here are some of the favourites from the tasting (only one bottle of bubbly was corked and removed from the tasting):
Traditional style:
Chateau des Charmes Estate Bottled Brut NV ($26, 91 points) — This bubbly is a classic cuvee of 50% chardonnay and 50% pinot noir made in the traditional method. It is a consistent non-vintage wine that has a beautiful burst of fresh citrus and apple on the nose. A vigorous mousse on the palate to go with lime, lemon, apple and toast flavours all leading to a long, clean, crisp finish.
Jackson Triggs Methode Classique 2006 ($22, 90 points) — There’s a lot to like about this consistently well made sparkling wine. But the price knocks me out. Such a great wine for $22. The nose smells of yeast, bread dough, citrus and vanilla. In the mouth, it had some of the most lively bubbles in the tasting. It’s loaded with citrus-apple fruit and backed up by racy acidity. All that and a clean, fresh finish.
See Ya Later Ranch SYL Brut NV ($20, Okanagan, 88 points) — Lovely notes of citrus, toast and brioche on the nose. The bubbles are lively on the palate with honeydew, orchard fruits and citrus zest. It’s a fruity wine with light toast and cream.
Sumac Ridge Steller’s Jay Brut 2006 Methode Classique ($27, Okanagan, 93 points) — Sumac Ridge is credited with making Canada’s first commercial sparkling wine. The Steller’s Jay has been one of the benchmark bubblies in Canada since it was first made. A gorgeous nose of orchard fruits, citrus and flowers to go with toast and cream. It’s crisp and juicy on the palate with a fine mousse and creamy-nutty notes on the finish.
Benjamin Bridge Blanc de Noirs 2004 ($119, Nova Scotia, 93 points) — It was an incredible coup to get this wine to the tasting (thanks, Will!) and it certainly lived up to the hype. Benjamin Bridge is a super premium sparkling wine producer cropping vineyards to less than a tonne per acre, hence the prices. The blanc de noirs is 100% pinot noir that starts with a healthy stream of bubbles, fresh red fruits, citrus rind and minerality on the nose. The obvious minerality continues in the mouth with a vibrant core of acidity that shows the wine’s youthful exuberance married to toasty-yeasty notes, fresh red fruits and citrus zest. Only 200 bottles were made. But wow.
Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve 2004 ($74, Nova Scotia, 92 points) — This brut reserve shows bright lemon-lime freshness on the nose with muted yeast, toast notes. The acidity lights up the palate with waves of citrus zest following behind. This mouth-puckering sparkler gets the juices going with bright acidity and finishes refreshingly clean.
Trius Brut NV ($25, 88 points) — Made in the traditional style, this non vintage sparkler from Hillebrand is 70% chardonnay and the rest pinot noir. Plenty of citrus zip on the nose with yeast, apple and toast following. Very nice bubbly with good citrus-apple notes and lively acidity to refresh the palate.
Summerhill Pyramid Winery Cipes 2008 ($29, Okanagan, 87 points) — Made in an austere style with lemon-lime citrus notes on the nose with added green apple and tangerine zest. Plenty of zip and fizz on the palate with good acidity and fruit flavours.
Blue Mountain Brut NV ($33, Okanagan, 87 points) — To be honest, I was hoping for a bit more from this quality Okanagan Falls producer. But this non vintage cuvee, a blend of mostly pinot noir and chardonnay, falls just short of great. The nose is layered in citrus, brioche, apples and a spring floral note. On the palate it shows crisp lemon and toast notes carried by a fine mousse.
Huff Estates Cuvee Peter F. Huff 2008 ($40, Prince Edward County, 91 points) — This is an all-chardonnay sparkler with a welcoming nose of citrus, yeast, pie crust, green apple and pear. Love this wine in the mouth — with it’s vigorous bead of bubbles, and flavours of lemon meringue pie, and juicy fruits held in balance with firm acidity, it’s got it all.
Roses:
13th Street Cuvee Rose NV ($25, 88 points) — A lovely traditional method sparkling rose with pretty but subtle strawberry and cherry fruits on the nose to go with light toasty notes. It’s fresh on the palate with a vigorous mousse and bright, freshening acidity.
Chateau des Charmes 2008 Rose ($29, 92 points) — A lovely nose of fresh red fruits from this classically made rose that is a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay. It dances on the palate with lightness, freshness and wonderfully bright acidity. Could sip this all day and night.
Hinterland Rose 2008 ($37, Prince Edward County, 93 points) — Made from 90% pinot noir and the rest chardonnay, this is a gorgeous and serious rose with fragrant field strawberry fruit, cranberry and toast notes on the nose. It has razor sharp acidity on the palate to go with all those red berries and toasty vanilla flavours. This winery only makes sparkling wines.
Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Rose Brut ($30, 93 points) — A lovely, elegant rose, made from pinot noir and chardonnay, and among the best tasted at Canoe. The nose is all about fine citrus-apple-strawberry fruits and toasty notes. Bright red fruits and zesty citrus flavours fill the mouth of this crisp and delicious bubbly.
Riesling, gewurz and other grapes:
Hillebrand Showcase Sparkling Riesling 2006 ($40, 92 points) — One of the most talked about sparklers at the tasting. Nicely aged riesling-driven profile of rich citrus, heavy toast, vanilla and emerging petrol notes. Still very fresh and alive.
L’Acadie Vineyards Prestige Brut 2007 ($40, Nova Scotia, 91 points) — Traditionally made sparkler from Nova Scotia’s Gaspereau Valley. The grape is L’Acadie, the signature grape of the province, which is primarily what this certified organic producer grows and makes. Lovely ripe, citrus fruit notes on the nose to go with vanilla and Melba toast. Very fresh on the palate nicely balanced fruit and acidity.
Sumac Ridge Sparkling Gewurztraminer NV ($25, Okanagan, 88 points) — Lots of differing opinions on this unusual wine. I found it unique in a good way. The fruits range from grapefruit to tropical fruits with a nice floral note. It shows a touch of spice in the mouth with decent acidity and ripe fruits. I can see it pairing nicely with spicy Asian food.
Vineland Estate Sparkling Riesling Methode Cuve Close 2008 ($28, 88 points) — A wonderful and creamy sparkling wine with citrus, melon, light toast and crisp, clean notes on the finish. It’s made by the cuve close method where the wine’s secondary fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. At only 10% alcohol, it’s the kind the kind of sparkler I would have been happy to serve at either of my weddings (and the guests wouldn’t get so out of hand, but that’s another story).
Fielding Estate Riesling Brut NV ($28, 88 points) — Fielding makes its bubbly in the charmat style, which works well with riesling. Fresh notes of peach and apple on the nose followed by a decent mousse and crisp fruit on the palate. A fresh and enjoyable treat.
Shot of icewine, cider and a mystery wine:
Peller Estate Signature Series Ice Cuvee Classic ($32, 92 points) — Peller has perfected the art of adding a shot (about 15%) of icewine to the cuvee. The result is a decadent bubbly with tropical fruits, bread yeast, vanilla and sweet aromas. It’s lovely on the palate with a smooth texture, apricot fruit, apple and citrus all delivered with a nice, sweet wet kiss of wild honey.
L’Acadie Vineyards Organic Cider 2008 ($20, Nova Scotia, 86 points) — OK, not a sparkling WINE at all, but fun to include it in the tasting. Traditional Champagne methods were used to bottle ferment the organic apples. It’s a fresh and apple-y delight that picks up subtle brown sugar notes on the finish. Like apple sauce with fizz.
Henry of Pelham Mystery Wine (price not available, not rated) — Paul Speck brought a mystery wine to the tasting for a very early preview of the winery’s first vintage dated sparkling wine. It won’t be released until 2013. It’s a blanc de blanc that will have seen 60 months of bottle aging after partial barrel fermentation. This tete de cuvee is being made to celebrate the winery’s 25th anniversary of winemaking. The Specks brothers disgorged a few bottles three years into the aging process and we tasted one at #tinybubbles. It is going to be a gorgeous wine, already showing spectacular layered fruits, toast and vanilla. Can’t wait to see this wine after two more years aging.
Disclaimers and Thanks
These informal tastings are conducted by wine-loving friends for the sheer enjoyment and exploration of Canadian wines. Most of the wines are donated by wineries or come from cellars of the participants. Some wines, that we feel should be a part of the tasting, are purchased. A small fee is collected from each taster to cover any out of pocket expenses and help pay for staff left to do the cleanup.
The organizers, William Predhomme, sommelier at Canoe Restaurant, Suresh Doss, publisher of spotlighttoronto, and myself, are grateful for the wine donations but a special shootout goes to Jackson-Triggs’ marketing guru Del Rollo, who always does a “wine run” (which is likely against the law) to the Okanagan Valley to make sure we have great B.C. wines to try, and L’Acadie viticulturist Travis McFarlane who shipped his bubblies all the way from Nova Scotia.
Watch Twitter for details of the next tasting sometime at the May where the theme is single vineyard rieslings. It will be hosted by Del at Jackson Triggs in Niagara-on-the-Lake. The hashtag for Twitter is #SVriesling. If you’d like to donate wine, email me (winesniagara@gmail.com) or Suresh (suresh.doss@gmail.com).
Enjoy!
Rick,
Speaking of L’Acadie, I have a bottle of their 2008 Alchemy for you to try. Will be in NotL next weekend. Email or @ me (@ltdan) and let me know the best way to get it to you.