By Michael Lowe
Note: Wines In Niagara food writer and critic, Michael Lowe, embarks on a multi-part series called The Back-of-the-House where he gets up close and personal with the dynamic and creative chefs of Niagara. In this first part, Mike visits with Steve Skordas, the chef-owner of Koutouki Greek Cuisine in Niagara Falls.
When I approached a few Niagara chefs with the idea of writing a series of stories from a back-of-the-house perspective, the response was always the same — immediate and positive.
This issue features Steve Skordas (top photo), chef/owner of Koutouki Greek Cuisine in Niagara Falls. During previous visits (including my recent review here) to the restaurant great food, heartwarming service and hospitality were the norm. Steve and I had also briefly discussed the food of his homeland over a drink. But I wanted to know more.
I arrive at Koutouki mid-afternoon with chef coat and apron in hand prepared for my working interview. Today he wastes no time and quickly ushers me through the kitchen to a place where I can change. “I see you’ve come ready to work.” he remarks, “I’ve left a few things for you to help with.”
As I re-enter the kitchen Steve is adding the last layer of beef to a carefully assembled pan of moussaka. “See the even space left at the top of the pan?” he says, “That’s so the layer of bechamel will be even.”
Final layer of beef for the Moussaka
At the stove, a pot of milk heats gently as Steve stirs the roux for the béchamel. His orders are clear and concise. “Crack those eggs … now, stick your finger in the milk. Not quite hot enough yet, another minute.”
At the correct moment he begins to pour the milk into the roux, I ask how old he was when he first made béchamel. By now he is churning the mixture vigorously with a large whisk. “Six years old, my mother’s shoulder was no good so she could not do this,” he says with a grin.
When pressed for more detail on his family, Steve continues, “Larissa (Greece) is my hometown. My family owned a bakery. Not everyone had a kitchen in their house so the neighbors would bring lamb, potatoes and vegetables to us and we would cook it for them.”
Milk added to the roux for béchamel
Bechamel caps off the moussaka
Steve’s wife Sheena shares the workload in the kitchen. She is just finishing the avgolemono soup and directs my attention to a pot of simmering chicken stock containing strands of chicken meat and rice.
Lemon juice for avgolemono soup
While Sheena squeezes and strains fresh lemon juice (no bottled stuff here), she asks me to crack some eggs. The eggs are combined with the lemon juice to add body, acidity and flavour to the soup.
Steve calls me over to the prep table where he is “butterflying” chicken breasts. During a quick demonstration he stresses the uniform thickness of a completed breast before handing me the knife.
“Do the rest just like that,” he says.
I work quietly, focusing on my knife work, not wanting to disappoint my passionate teacher. The breasts are then filled with roasted red pepper, feta cheese, oregano and basil.
Stuffed chicken breasts
Curious about a custom I’d seen on TV, I ask: “Is it true the Greeks tenderize octopus by beating it against a rock?”
“Oh, yes.” Steve replies, “But they don’t do that anymore. Now they put it in the washing machine.”
The octopus on Koutouki’s menu is one of my favourite dishes. Don’t worry. It does not go into the washing machine.
“I hope you don’t mind me sharing your secrets with my readers,” I add.
Steve smiles and says, “There are no secrets. We have evolved as a culture through sharing.”
During a break, we sip wine while Steve shares stories of his career:
“I was twenty when I came to Canada. I had a couple of sub shops with my brother and a pizza place. Then I opened an Espresso cafe in Dundas. The first day I had fifty bucks in my pocket. On my way out the door I met the Greek guy who owned the restaurant across the street. He needed money to buy vegetables so I gave him the money.”
Generosity is just one of Steve’s traits. He is also a proud man — proud of the fact that he has never has had to put one of his businesses up for sale. “Buyers have always come to me asking me to sell. And, I’ve always had the next place ready to go before closing the door on the last one.”
Such was the case when Steve sold his popular, namesake restaurant Sotiris in Hamilton.
“After thirty-two years, this will be my last place. This place is really for my girl,” he says, referring to his daughter Georgina. “She was born into this business and was washing dishes at four years old.”
Back in the kitchen, I get a lesson in making spanakopita and tzatziki sauce.
Trying my hand at Spanakopita
“So, this is my life,” Steve remarks as we clean up. “I like to be done by seven so I can enjoy a nice meal.”
We sit down to a fabulous platter of Steve’s favourite thing to eat — braised lamb shanks with avgolemono sauce, green onions and artichokes.
Braised lamb shanks
As we eat Steve’s eyes scan the restaurant, watching the remaining diners. He knows many of them by name. A group of women rise to leave and Steve rises and excuses himself. He grasps the hand of each of the women in turn, and, after thanking them for coming, kisses the back of their hand. “See you next time,” he calls as they exit.
I smile, content that I have just witnessed the essence of this wonderful restaurant.
They do have awesome food there!