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The big red wine release from the 2010 vintage at Calamus Estate Winery

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There is always a peaceful easy feeling as you make the short trek from the village of Jordan along the twisty road that borders the Balls Falls Conservation Area to the rustic Calamus Estate Winery.

It is a destination winery, not one you just stumble upon, and there’s always a friendly face waiting in the quaint tasting room to lead through the solid, honest wines crafted at this boutique estate.

Derek_Pat_LgCalamus is owned and run by Derek Saunders and his wife, Pat Latin, pictured left, who purchased their 14-acre property in 1999 and planted their first 10-acre vineyard in 2000. With the goal of supporting an 8,500 case winery, a second farm and 19th century barn was purchased in 2001.

The second property, located adjacent to Ball’s Falls Conservation Area, is now the home of Calamus.

The winery now has a total of 32 acres under vine consisting of Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris, Vidal, Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir. The 100% VQA wines are all bottled under screwcap as Saunders believes this to be a superior closure for preserving wine quality, freshness and longevity.

The winery farms two main vineyard sites:

The Falls Vineyard Site — Vinemount Ridge Appellation

This vineyard, located in the coveted Vinemount Ridge appellation is the site of the winery operation and 20 acres of premium vinifera grapes. This appellation is gained recognition as a highly coveted location for producing Riesling, in particular. The Calamus single-vineyard Riesling comes from this site.

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Purchased in August 2001, the 42-acre property was once a small dairy farm where feed crops were grown on the 22 arable acres of gently sloping fields. The original barns have been renovated to house the winery and retail facility. Bisecting the property and cutting through the site’s 20-acre ravine, is 18 Mile Creek. In June 2002, the land was shaped, tile drainage installed, soil amended and 27,200 vines (20 acres) were planted. The final 1.5 acres were planted June 2004.

The Bartlett Creek Vineyard Site — Lincoln Lakeshore Appellation

In September 1999 a 14-acre farm on Greenlane Rd. on the eastern edge of the town of Beamsville below the Niagara Escarpment was purchased. The property was an overgrown orchard and vineyard that required clearing, land shaping, tile drainage and soil nutrients prior to planting. By early summer 2000, the land was prepared and 14,280 vines (10.5 acres) of vinifera and hybrid varieties planted.

I tasted the new 2010 red releases from Calamus with Saunders, winemaker Arthur Harder (very top photo) and sales manager Larry Horne, well before Christmas.

Here’s what I liked and all should be available at the winery now:

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Calamus Estate Pinot Noir 2010 ($24, 89 points) — This Pinot has a nose of field raspberry, pure cherry extract, sandalwood, spice and cigar-box cedar. It has medium weight on the palate, silky tannins, juicy red fruits, a touch of cassis, anise, licorice and savoury spices. Could age for a few years but attractive now.

Calamus Estate Cabernet Franc 2010 ($20, 91 points) — This is how you make Cab Franc in a cool climate from a warm vintage. It’s not over done and still captures the essence of this wonderful varietal. A big nose of wildberry, bramble, raspberry, blackberry, lovely hints of fresh garden herbs and spices and subtle tobacco leaf. It’s simply delicious on the palate with ripe red fruits, roasted herbs and coffee beans, and ripe, plush tannins. All nicely balanced and should age well.

Calamus Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($22, 87 points) — I always question winemakers in Niagara when they bottle a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon as it’s such a tough grape to grow here and make appealing. Harder defends making it in only the ripest vintages (2012, 2010, 2007 and 2005). “When that happens, it’s as good as anywhere,” Harder says. The nose shows blackberry, cherry and cassis fruit with integrated oak and sweet spices. It shows some complexity on the palate and solid varietal fruit to go with firm tannins and a decent finish. Could cellar for a few years.

cosmicCalamus Estate Merlot 2010 ($25, 89 points) — This is only the second Merlot that’s been made at the estate (the first was from 2008). It’s all from fruit sourced from the estate’s Lincoln-Lakeshore vineyards. I love the nose, such expressive cherry-kirsch, currants, mocha and toasty vanilla oak and spices. It’s rich, layered and chock full of red fruits on the palate. A great food wine.

Calamus Estate Meritage 2010 ($28, 91 points) — This is a blend of 42% Merlot, 42% Cab Sauv and the rest Cab Franc all from Lincoln-Lakeshore. It possesses such a nice nose of rich red fruits and spices that are integrated rather than overpowering; pretty yet serious. On the palate it reveals black cherry, raspberry, cassis, black currants and toasted vanilla and spice. It’s yummy and has the stuffing to age for five years or more and get even better.

Calamus Estate Cosmic Red 2010 ($20, 88 points) — Harder goes through a rigorous process of identifying the best barrels and lots of wine every vintage. The very best goes into the estate bottlings while what’s left goes into the second label Cosmic Red and White. This wine is a blend of Cab Franc, Cab Sauv, Merlot and Pinot Noir. It is a very fine red blend with a nose of ripe red berries, currants, violets, mocha spice and subtle earth and bramble bush notes. It has decent structure and medium weight on the palate, but the lush fruit flavours, a hallmark of the warm vintage, shines through with blackberry, cherries, raspberries and cassis dominating the oak and spice. An appealing and approachable red.