One of the busiest wine weekends of the year in Niagara has come and gone and, it’s pretty safe to say, that to who all came to the revamped Cuvée gala, the best Niagara (with a smattering of other Ontario) wines were enjoyed.
I have to admit I was skeptical of the new format and disappointed by the loss of yet another wine competition (RIP Canadian Wine Awards), but I came away as a believer in the rebuilt charity event.
Cuvée, prior to the Silver Anniversary this year, was designed as a competition judged by winemakers with winners revealed (Oscar-style) and poured at the gala event. The competition had its supporters and detractors and it was decided last year to give the event, a major fundraiser for the Niagara Community Foundation, a thorough facelift.
Cuvée has always been a celebration of outstanding Ontario VQA wines and food. But, let’s be honest, it’s really a celebration of Niagara wines. Only four non-Niagara wineries made the long trip to the Fallsview Casino in Niagara Falls to pour their wines (and who can blame them?), a time and distance commitment that deserves a medal in itself.
In the new format, winemakers were asked to choose their favourite wine to pour for guests. So, unlike other years, where multiple wines were poured per winery, only one wine was served at each table.
Winemakers actually chose two of their wines, one white and one red, and Cuvée organizers made their final selections based on an almost even amount of whites and reds and made sure that all whites weren’t Chardonnay and all reds weren’t Pinot Noir.
In that selection, I think Cuvée succeeded. There was good variety in both reds and whites, even if some wineries weren’t actually pouring their first choice.
The room was divided into reds and whites, that some felt was curious, but I thought was brilliant. That’s how I taste. Whites first, then reds.
The 10 food stations (for more on the food of Cuvée, see Mike Lowe’s post) were located in the middle of the room and around the perimeter with enough spacing that it never felt crowded.
The Grand Tasting featured wines from 40 winemakers.
Here’s what a couple of organizers had to say prior to the event:
According to Ken Douglas, a member of both the Cuvée committee and the VQA Ontario Board of Directors, “Our changes introduced to Cuvée this year regarding the wines being poured at the Grand Tasting will offer wine lovers a more focused, one-of-a-kind tasting experience that highlights over 40 of our Ontario winemakers and the wines for which they feel an incredible amount of pride. Ontario’s wine industry has certainly come of age.”
Debi Pratt, Cuvée committee member and spokesperson for Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs and Le Clos Jordanne, agreed that this year’s event offered a new type of tasting experience for Cuvée guests that will be the first of its kind in Ontario but more importantly is a fun way to discover new wines from the person who made them. “It is not often that a winemaker can simply select a wine that is his personal favourite and share it at a Grand Tasting.”
Each winery that poured at Cuvée had the winemaker present to pour the wines and talk about why they felt it was their favourite wine.
Proceeds from Cuvée go to the Niagara Community Foundation. Established in 2000, the Foundation has raised almost $20 million and granted over $4.8 million from its endowment fund created to support local charities working in the arts, heritage, environment, social services, health, education and community development.
Did Cuvée achieve what it set out to do? Did they make the event better and more attractive for consumers to shell out $200 for a ticket that included the Grand Tasting Gala and Après Cuvée and Cuvée en Route pass?
Certainly on the wine side and wow factor for the gala night, I think Cuvée’s latest incarnation is much better for consumers. If you made it to every booth (which I did not) I think you got a remarkable feel for what Ontario does best and what winemakers can do at the very top end of the spectrum.
Here’s what each winery poured. Warning: I found myself doing more talking then tasting on Friday night and did not get to nearly enough booths as I wanted to.
Red Wines
13th Street Essence Pinot Noir 2010 ($45, winemaker Jean Pierre Colas) — For a guy who famously told a national newspaper that he doesn’t believe in Ontario Pinot Noir, Colas is finding his stride with this heart-break grape. Essence is the top tier at 13th Street, but is Pinot its signature grape? Not sure on this one. While the wine is fabulous, I would have been tempted to show the 13th Street Sandstone Reserve Chardonnay 2011 or Sandstone Vineyard Old Vines Gamay 2010. But that’s just me.
Chateau des Charmes Equuleus Paul Bosc Vineyard 2010 ($40, Paul Bosc) — Nailed it. This is the top wine at the venerable St. Davids winery each year Bosc feels it’s worthy to make. No question.
Colaneri Estate Winery Insieme 2010 ($35, Andrzej Lipinski) — Definitely the wine that the Colaneri family touts as its favourite. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cab Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot that truly reflects the name that means “together” in Italian. The wine is made in Colaneri’s signature appassimento style.
Colio Estate CEV Small Lot Syrah 2010 ($20, Lawrence Buhler) — I haven’t tasted all of Colio’s wines but I have tasted this one and can say that this was a good choice for Cuvée. Buhler, formerly winemaker at Peller Estate, is clearly putting his stamp on this Lake Erie North Shore winery.
Coyote’s Run Estate Winery Rare Vintage Pinot Noir 2010 ($50, David Sheppard) — Absolutely the top tier wine being made at this winery. I tasted it for the first time at Cuvée and was impressed with the depth of flavour, silkiness and integrated spices. Bravo.
Five Rows Craft Wine Pinot Noir 2009 ($50, Wes Lowrey) — This grower family has some of the finest Pinot vines in Niagara. Most of it is sold to various wineries and it always ends up in top Niagara Pinot Noirs. So, it just makes sense that Lowrey pours his version of this Pinot at Cuvée. Great choice.
Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir Reserve 2009 ($45, Jay Johnston … though made by Ross Wise) — Flat Rock is a major Pinot producer in Niagara and this is its best from a great vintage. Home run here.
Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet-Merlot 2010 ($50, Ron Giesbrecht) — One of the stars of the vintage, this top tier Bordeaux blend from the Speck brothers is the signature wine from the winery.
Innkiskillin Winemaker’s Series Three Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2010 ($23, Bruce Nicholson) — It was hard for Nicholson to choose from his large portfolio but even with passing over his top Legacy wines he made the right decision with the Cabernet Franc here that could have been elevated to Legacy status. Note to readers: A bargain at this price.
Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Syrah 2010 ($33, Marco Piccoli) — The historic Delaine Vineyard has always delivered grapes destined for J-T’s top wines. Piccoli loves his Syrah and this wine from the sensational 2010 vintage is truly the top wine available at the estate.
Kacaba Vineyards Syrah Reserve 2010 ($70, John Tummon) — One of the few wines from the Cuvée selection I haven’t tried before and missed it on Friday night. Knowing how this winery takes great pride in this variety, I have no doubt this is the winery’s very best.
Lailey Vineyard Impromptu 2010 ($45, Derek Barnett) — This blend of Syrah, Malbec and Petit Verdot was a gold medal winner at the Canadian Wine Awards. I have not tried it, but have no doubt it is what Barnett feels is his best wine.
Lakeview Cellars Cabernet Merlot Reserve 2010 ($19, Peter Toms) — I have tasted this wine before and enjoyed it. Perhaps, though, Syrah is what I was expecting.
Le Clos Jordanne Claystone Terrace Pinot Noir 2009 ($45, Sebastien Jacquey) — Jacquey has a lot of choices in his Le Clos portfolio but the Claystone 09 was drinking brilliantly Friday night. Good choice.
Malivoire Lady Bug Rose 2012 ($16, Shiraz Mottiar) — Yes, the Lady Bug is one of Niagara’s best roses, but, for me, one of the odder choices of the evening. I can think of a half dozen other wines I’ve tasted in the last six months at Malivoire that I would have preferred to see was poured at an event such as Cuvée.
Megalomaniac Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Franc 2008 ($45, Sue-Ann Staff) — Totally missed this table (sorry!)
Mike Weir Meritage Reserve 2010 ($25, Adam Pearce) — Great choice from Weir. A fantastic wine at an attractive price.
Pelee Island Cabernet Sauvignon Petit Verdot Vinedresser 2010 ($20, Martin Janz) — A very nice choice for Cuvée and fantastic to see Pelee Island make the trek to Niagara Falls.
Peninsula Ridge Vintner’s Private Reserve Merlot 2010 ($30, Jamie Evans) — When the winemaker says “it’s the best Merlot I’ve ever made” you have to respect that. I tried and liked it on Friday night. Tough choice from a fairly large portfolio.
Pillitteri Estate Exclamation Cabernet Franc 2010 ($35, Alex Kolundzic) — Exclamation is the cream of the crop for Pillitteri and the Cab Franc I tasted on Friday night was a wonderful example from the 2010 vintage. Yes, the right choice for Cuvée.
PondView Estate Meritage 2010 ($40, Fred DiProfio) — Not sure if PondView submitted its top Chardonnay to the Cuvee folks, either this or the well-made top Chard would have fit the bill. Great Meritage, though.
Reif Estate Meritage 2010 ($30, Klaus Reif and Roberto DiDomenico) — Reif farms some of the warmest vineyards in the region, so in a vintage such as 2010, you expect a deliciously ripe Meritage. A rare vintage that shines in the hands of these two winemakers. Great choice.
Ridgepoint Merlot Cabernet and Aglianico 2010 ($30, Barclay Robinson) — Loved this choice. I just recently tasted through the entire portfolio from Ridgepoint and this unusual blend was one of the superstars.
Rockway Vineyards Small Lot Reserve Cabernet Franc 2010 ($24, David Stasiuk) — Stasiuk is reviving the Rockway portfolio, especially at the Small Lot level. A good buy from a great vintage.
Vignoble Rancourt Meritage 2007 ($20, Eric Pearson) — Missed this table and haven’t tried the wines at Rancourt.
White Wines
Angel’s Gate Carte Blanche 2010 ($20, Philip Dowell) — It’s hard to argue with a winemaker who feels this is his best white wine, but, for me, both the Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc from the Mountainview tier bested this wine in my tasting notes.
By Chadsey’s Cairnes Riesling 2011 ($23, Vida Zalnieriiunas) — I have not tried this botrytis-affected Riesling, so can’t really comment. Glad they made the trip from Prince Edward County, though.
Calamus Pinot Gris 2011 ($17, Arthur Harder) — I suspect, but don’t know for sure, that Calamus also submitted its flagship Meritage. The Gris is nice (the 2012 is fabulous) but would have liked to see the Vinemount Ridge Riesling instead.
Cave Spring Cellars Riesling CSV 2009 ($30, Angelo Pavan) — No choice here. This is what Cave Spring is famous for. End of story.
Cooper’s Hawk Riesling 2011 ($16, Rori McCaw) — I did not get to taste this wine from Harrow’s Cooper’s Hawk.
Konzelmann Estate Winery Gewurztraminer Late Harvest 2011 ($17, Herbert Konzelmann and Fabian Reis) — Didn’t get a chance to try this, but it’s the logical choice from this well-known Gewurz producer.
Niagara Teaching College Dean’s List Chardonnay 2010 ($28, Terence VanRooyen) — Perhaps the greatest white VanRooyen has ever made. So, a perfect choice for Cuvee.
Palatine Hills Neufeld Vineyard Chardonnay 2010 ($23, Jeff Innes) — Did not try.
Ravine Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay Barrel Select Unfiltered 2009 ($40, Shauna White) — The only other wine from Ravine to consider would have been the Picone Vineyard Cabernet Franc. But there’s no argument from me on this choice.
Riverview Cellars Estate Gewurztraminer 2011 ($19, Angela Kasimos) — Another winery that prides itself on its Gewurz. So, hard to argue against it.
Stoney Ridge Excellence Chardonnay 2010 ($28, Gordon Robert) — Such a great wine. Robert has made this Excellence tier his personal playground and the wines he’s producing are some of the best the winery has ever made. Perfect choice.
Stratus White 2009 ($44, J-L Groux) — This wonderful producer makes two wines that represent the best of the best in blending each year — the Stratus White and Stratus Red. The white bested the red this year, and it was drinking beautifully at Cuvée.
Strewn Gewurztraminer Terroir 2011 ($18, Marc Bradshaw) — Strewn has a well-balanced portfolio of moderately priced wines. Pretty good choice here.
Sue-Ann Staff Grace’s Dry Riesling 2011 ($19, Sue-Ann Staff) — I did not get to taste this Friday and have not tasted it at all. So, can’t comment here.
Thirty Bench Small Lot Chardonnay 2010 ($30, Mary McDermott) — A little puzzled that Thirty Bench wasn’t pouring one of its signature Small Lot Rieslings, but did not try the Chard.
Thomas Bachelder Wismer Chardonnay 2010 ($45, Thomas Bachelder) — My white wine of the year in Niagara in 2012. Tasting it Friday only confirmed that. Perfect choice.
Vineland Estate St. Urban Vineyard Elevation Riesling 2011 ($20, Brian Schmidt) — No question, Vineland’s top wine available right now. Riesling at its best from an iconic vineyard at a great price.
•••
In addition to the wine and food of Cuvée, two important industry awards were announced and presented at the event.
The Cuvée Award of Excellence in Viticulture, sponsored by BASF Canada Inc., was presented to David Beyers, Vineyard Manager at Ravine Vineyards Estate Winery.
Terrance Van Rooyen, Professor at Niagara College Teaching Winery was recognized with the Tony Aspler Cuvée Award of Excellence for honing the skills of future cool climate winemakers for Canada and the world.
Congrats to both!
Glad you liked the new format of the Grand Tasting!
Great overview here Rick! Well done