International Wines/BeerTop Stories

The exciting 2011 Vintage Ports; Taylor Fladgate and Croft 2011 in review and how to get your hands on them in Ontario

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Can’t remember this much excitement for a Port release since I lined up outside the Dalhousie Vintages stores in Ottawa in 1997 in the middle of February to get my measly allotment of two half bottles of Taylor Fladgate Port 2004.

Back in the bad old days of Vintages, consumers would have to wait outside the store until it opened, no matter if it was 30 below in the middle of winter, to get their hands on tiny allotments of top-rated wines. We would get the most curious looks from people driving by, the kind of look that said ‘You must have a problem if you have to line up to buy booze.’

I suppose they were right. But if we didn’t line up we’d never acquire the top Ports, namely Taylor Fladgate and Fonseca, of the 1994 vintage that were rated 100 points by Wine Spectator.

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And the now the 2011s are about to arrive and the frenzy is building again, fuelled by ratings from the major sources including Jancis Robinson, James Suckling, the Wine Advocate and the Wine Spectator.

Here’s a sampling of gushing quotes:

“2011 vintage Port is exceptional! I just got back from visiting Oporto last week where I tasted almost 50 samples, and I have to say that the 2011 is the best since the legendary 1994 — and perhaps even better. It reminds me of the 1966, or 1927.”

— James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com

“I have never been as excited by the launch of a clutch of vintage ports. The quality of the best examples, of which there are many, is outstanding.”

Jancis Robinson MW, Financial Times

“The young wines have the feel of greatness it could turn out to be another 1963 perhaps a 1945 or 1908.”

Derek Smedley MW

“Overall, the 2011s justify the hype that has fomented around their release. Collectively they form a delightful, occasionally profound set of young Ports with glistening futures ahead. While the fineness of the tannins and freshness may lure some to relish their precocious youth, there is no escaping the fact that few beverages surpass Port when they pass thirty years of age … these are truly wonderful Vintage Ports that will reward extended cellaring. Declarations are, more often than not, promises that are kept.”

Neal Martin, 2011 Vintage Port Review, Wine Advocate

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The 2011 vintage is the first universal declaration for Vintage Port since 2007.

These could be some of the most collectible, age-worthy wines in a generation. Comparisons are being drawn between the 2011s and some of the landmark blockbuster vintages of the century: 1994, 1963 and even the legendary 1945 vintage.

I have only tasted the Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2011 and Croft Vintage Port 2011 and was blown away by the concentration and depth of flavours. I tasted the Taylor beside a 1994 vintage and found similarities to the flavours and complexity.

These are Ports for the ages and will continue to evolved for two or three decades. The kind of Port you buy to put away for your children to enjoy 20 years from now.

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Taylor Fladgate managing director Adrian Bridge summed up his views on the 2011 vintage as follows:

“2011 has produced textbook Vintage Ports, classics in every sense. The wines have a wonderful purity and elegance but also plenty of background and structure,” he said.

The quality of the 2011 harvest had been apparent from the outset but, as usual, a decision on whether or not to declare the vintage was only taken once the final blends were ready for evaluation. The wines were then assessed for quality, potential longevity and consistency with the house style.

Taylor winemaker David Guimaraens said of the conditions leading up to the harvest in 2011: “Abundant spring rainfall created reserves to keep the vines well supplied with water throughout the hot dry summer. This resulted in balanced ripening and wines that have elegance as well as depth and stamina.

“The 2011s stand out for the purity of the fruit and the quality of the tannins, which are silky and well integrated but provide plenty of structure,” he added.

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You can read what the Wine Spectator had to say about the 2011s here.

And you can read also read Jancis Robinson’s piece, The Best 2011 Reds Anywhere, about the Port vintage here where she heaps praise on the quality of the wines.

Ordering for the full range of Vintage Ports from 2011 at Vintages begins on Friday, Nov. 1 at 8:30 a.m. Quantities are limited and orders will be processed on a first-come, first-served basis. Go here for the list of Ports on sale.

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How to Order

Ordering begins Friday, Nov. 1, 8:30 a.m.

To place your VINTAGES order call helloLCBO at 416-365-5767 or toll-free at 1-800-266-4764 (Monday to Friday, 8:30 a.m.-6 p.m., Saturday 9 a.m.-6 p.m.

All products are sold in single bottles.

There is no minimum order size.

Unless otherwise indicated, all bottles are 750 mL.

VINTAGES requires a 25% non-refundable/ non-transferable deposit of the total purchase at the time of order placement. Payment can be made by VISA, MasterCard or American Express.

The 2011 Vintage Port wines are expected to begin arriving at our warehouse in Spring 2014.

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Here’s my take on the Taylor Fladgate and Croft, tasted only this past Sunday:

vintage-port-2011tflTaylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2011 ($75 for 375 ml, $130 for 750 ml, order from Vintages Nov. 1, 97 points) — Taylor’s is one of the oldest of the founding Port houses. The history of the firm is in many ways the history of the Port trade itself.

Since its foundation the company has remained family owned and independent. Now well into its fourth century, it has thrived and prospered, establishing itself as one of the world’s most respected historic wine houses. This has been achieved through the perseverance, pioneering spirit and continuity of purpose of successive generations of family owners.

The nose on this gorgeous Port is teeming with rich and concentrated cassis, Espresso, blackberries, tar, black licorice, oak spices and, among all that, there is a lovely floral note that brings a touch of poise to this massive, heady wine. It’s stunning on the palate with a core of sweet and fleshy dark fruits, lavish spices and layer after layer of pleasure. Though tightly wound, the sweet tannins are not aggressive at all, just silky smooth through an extended finish that seems to go on for a full minute.

croft2011Croft Vintage Port 2011 ($70 for 375 ml, $120 for 750 ml, order from Vintages Nov. 1, 96 points) — Croft is one of the original founding Port houses, tracing its origins to 1588 when the company was established in England by Henry Thompson, a member of the Merchants Company of York. The Croft family, who joined the partnership in 1736 and gave the firm its present name, served the Port trade with great distinction.

Its reputation derives from its ownership of Quinta da Roêda, one of the finest estates in the Douro Valley, and from such legendary wines as the Croft 1945, recognized as one of the best of that landmark year. In 2001 this firm was acquired by the owners of the Taylor and Fonseca Port houses and since this return to family ownership has consolidated its position as a ‘first growth’ Vintage Port producer.

Croft’s Managing Director, Adrian Bridge, commented: “The 2011 harvest in the Douro Valley followed a near-perfect ripening season which produced wonderfully balanced, classic Ports. The quality was apparent from the outset and has been confirmed by the development of the wines since harvest time. The Croft 2011 Vintage Port has the richness and aromatic complexity which are the hallmarks of the house style but also impressive structure and depth of flavour. This is one of the most muscular and powerful of recent Croft Vintages.”

The nose shows a profound and complex riot of violets, sweet tobacco leaf, crushed black currants, stewed plums, fruitcake, spicy wild berries, and blueberry pie. It is big and assertive on the palate with weight, density and complex fruits of sweet black currants, dates, kirsch and blueberries in combination with myriad spices stitched neatly into the highly structured package. It is a super-rich, super-concentrated dark and flamboyant Port with a long, long  finish. It will take years of patience to fully appreciate but it will be worth every second of the wait.

Note: For an explanation of how Port is made, go here.