Niagara Wine ReviewsTop Stories

Charles Baker’s Picone Vineyard Riesling 2011 leads biggest Ontario wine release of the year at Vintages, plus details on Taste Local event, reviews of top Niagara wines

DSC_3370Oh, boy, get ready for an onslaught of Ontario wines as a multipronged promotion between the LCBO and Wine Country Ontario brings its “Taste Local” event to stores across the province from Sept. 14 to Oct. 11.

It’s the largest promotion of Ontario wines this year with all three major regions represented on store shelves and special events.

The LCBO says there will be 173 wines featured in this year’s promotion from more than 30 different Ontario wineries. Of these featured wines, 21 of them are new to the LCBO. An additional 22 new VQA wines will also be available in the Sept. 13 Vintages release and four new Vintages “Essentials” products will be launched in LCBO stores.

1409335893586The LCBO’s eight event kitchens will feature live demonstrations by local chefs every Saturday during the Taste Local event, where customers can sample local food and wine pairings. In addition, over 1,200 in-store Ontario wine tastings will be conducted in more than 200 LCBO stores.

A unique, customer-focused Ontario wine and pie pop-up tasting event will be held on Friday, Sept. 19 at 1095 Queen Street East, Toronto (Queen and Dovercourt) featuring Ontario wine and pie pairings. Guests will weave their way through a sensory experience of the wine regions of Niagara, Prince Edward County and Lake Erie North Shore — without leaving Toronto. Tickets include three sampling chits, as well as the opportunity to meet local winemakers and pie makers.

Go here for details.

9396-WCO-RRP_Web-Banners_Hub_FA aOn Oct. 2, Vintages presents Taste Ontario, the signature Ontario wine experience at the Royal Ontario Museum. Tickets to this tasting event, showcasing more than 100 premium Ontario VQA wines, are available here.

For more information on the Taste Local Ontario wine promotion, call 1-800-ONT-LCBO (668-5226). In Toronto, call 416- 365-5900 or visit your nearest LCBO store.

“This year’s promotion puts the focus not only on the incredible VQA wine we make here in Ontario, but on the many things that make ‘local’ so special,” said Kerri Dawson, LCBO vice president of marketing.

“Whether it’s the local winemaker, cheese monger, pie maker or chef, we want to celebrate home-grown talent.”

1409336185947QUICK FACTS (source: LCBO)

Sales of Ontario wine at LCBO were $396 million in fiscal 2013-14, 4.1 per cent higher than the year before. VQA sales ended the year at $123 million, up nearly 2.1 per cent over 2012-13. Year-to-date 2014-15, VQA wine sales are up 5.8 per cent and significantly outpacing imports.

Since 1991, when the first year of recorded VQA sales at LCBO were approximately $5 million, sales in this category have increased more than 2,300 per cent.

In fiscal 2013-14, VQA reds showed the strongest growth of 5.4 per cent, demonstrating that customers are embracing Ontario red varietal specialties like Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Baco Noir.

Other up-and-coming VQA categories included sparkling wines and rosé, which are becoming signature styles of Ontario. Total Ontario VQA rosé table wines grew by 3.8 per cent last year, while imported rosé table wines declined by 1.4 per cent.

Highlights of Sept. 13 release at Vintages

There are some excellent wines in this big Ontario release featuring most of the varietals that do well in the growing regions of Ontario.

One of the main highlights is the Charles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2011, a 112-case allotment that will likely sell out quickly.

Sales of this remarkable wine are directly attached to a fundraising effort for the Princess Margaret Hospital breast cancer care and research that Charles Baker and his wife have undertaken. There is a subtle reminder of breast cancer awareness attached to each bottle with the vintage 2011 printed in pink. Says Baker: “Regrettably breast cancer is far too common and it is affecting all of us deeply.”

His wine leads off our picks from the release on Sept. 13.

2011_Charles_Baker_Riesling_PicconeCharles Baker Picone Vineyard Riesling 2011 ($35, 93 points) — Picone Vineyard and Charles Baker have become synonymous with fine Riesling in Niagara. When these forces became one, a new breed of exceptional Riesling producer was born and Baker has been true to what the vineyard delivers each and every vintage since 2005. Picone, owned by Chef Mark Picone, is a remarkable seven-acre vineyard and Baker takes all the Riesling grown there. The vineyard is in the huge Vinemount Ridge sub-appellation, butting up against the Twenty Mile Bench on Moyer Road near Megalomaniac in Vineland. The vineyard benefits from its lofty, breezy perch on top of the Escarpment that keeps the fruit clean, dry and in pristine condition through harvest. The 2011 vintage is remarkable from the first sniff; rich, layered citrus fruit, savoury-herbal notes, a touch of jasmine and ginger, grapefruit, lanolin and that distinct wet stone note. The texture is gorgeous on the palate, broad and mouth-filling, but balanced out by racy-searing acidity. There is a richness to this wine and a fine vein of limestone minerality that melds perfectly to the juicy citrus and funky spice notes. This will evolve for a decade or more.

13th Street Cabernet Merlot 2012 ($20, 90 points) — The hot, near-perfect growing season of 2012 provided the backdrop for some very fine Bordeaux red blends in Ontario. 13th Street has done just that and they have done it an attractive price. The nose shows rich black currants, black cherry, ripe plums, bramble bush undertones and an array of spices. It possesses lovely texture on the palate with chewy tannins, rich, opulent fruit that’s highly extracted to go with layers of spices, a hint of licorice and a fairly long finish. Can age this nicely for a few years.

Tawse-Growers-Blend-Pinot-Noir-2010-LabelTawse Growers Blend Pinot Noir 2010 ($25, 90 points) — The popular Growers Blend in made from sourced Niagara fruit and is barrel fermented and barrel aged for 12 months (like all the Tawse Pinots). The nose shows gritty cherry and raspberry fruit, tart cranberry and some savoury-beefy notes. It’s earthy and meaty in the mouth with ripe tannins, savoury red fruits, anise and silky texture through the finish.

Peller Estates Signature Series Ice Cuvee Rose ($35, 93 points) – This blend includes 10% Cabernet Franc and a dosage of Cabernet Franc and Vidal icewine added in. This is such a magical wine with strawberry, citrus, watermelon, raspberry, spice, honey and toast on the nose. Simply delicious in the mouth with a sweet, vigorous bead of bubbles, lush red fruits of raspberry and strawberry and just a kiss of sweetness to balance out the acidity.

Bricklayer’s Reward “Big Pond” Sauvignon Blanc 2013 ($16, 87 points) — This is part of the growing collection of Colio’s Bricklayer’s wines that are made as a tribute to the three Italian bricklayers who had a dream of opening a winery in Lake Erie North Shore. The Sauvignon Blanc as a lovely nose of grapefruit, passion fruit, herbs, light grass and tropical fruit. It has good energy of the palate and is nicely balanced with grapefruit and fresh herbs leading the way.

Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2013 ($17, 89 points) — This is a blend of estate Riesling vines that were planted in 2004 (45%) and an older block of Riesling vines in a neighbouring vineyard (55%). The nose jumps with a jolt of lemon, lime, minerals, jasmine and honey. For a regular cuvee Riesling this delivers plenty of Twenty Mile Bench personality to go with a range of grapefruit, lime, peach and honey sweetness with fairly good acidity. Super good sipping Riesling at a great price.

Tawse Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2011 ($32, 91 points) — Laundry Vineyard is in the Lincoln-Lakeshore sub appellation and home to some of the oldest Cabernet Franc vines in Niagara. The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak. The nose shows bramble, wild raspberry, savoury cherry, cassis and mocha spice. It’s bursting with red fruit flavours on the palate and backed up by roasted herbs, wet tobacco leaf and mint spices on a highly structured frame. Could hold this for a couple of years. Classic Niagara Cab Franc.

13th Street Red Palatte 2012 ($16, 88 points) — A nose of field berries, plums, black cherries, raspberries and spice. The red fruits, from a blend of Gamay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, dominate the palate with touches of spice and soft, round tannins. You can chill this a bit before serving.

310_bigDomaine Queylus Pinot Noir Tradition 2011 ($30, 89 points) — A lighter style than the 2010 with bright red fruits, bramble and spice. The tannins provide good structure that plays nicely with the persistent red fruits, touch of cassis and wood spices.

Chateau des Charmes St. David’s Bench Vineyard Merlot 2012 ($30, 91 points) — This top-tier Merlot is only made in the best vintages. It’s best to decant this if you plan on drinking it any time soon. It has a lovely deep purple colour with a thick, rich nose of brambly red fruit, chocolate, cassis and toasty oak vanilla spices. There are generous tannins on the palate but matched by rich, red fruits, anise, currants and swirling spices delivered on a long, long finish.

Norman-Hardie-County-Unfiltered-Pinot-Noir-2010-LabelNorman Hardie County Pinot Noir Unfiltered 2012 ($39, 90 points) — An interesting and inviting nose of fresh cran-cherry and raspberry fruit with a balanced approach to spice and minerals. The palate reveals cranberry and cherry notes, crunchy spices and length through the finish.

Château des Charmes Estate Bottled Vidal Icewine 2013 ($26 for 200 ml, 92 points) — Aromas of sweet apricot, lush peach, tropical fruits and honey on a golden robe. It is unctuous and caressing on the palate with peach compote, apricot, honey and a lick of lemon-citrus rind that all builds in intensity in the mouth. Beautifully constructed and balanced by good acidity. Drink now or hold while it gains those lovely tertiary notes that icewine provides.

Other Ontario wines being released, but not reviewed

Grange of Prince Edward County Sparkling Riesling 2013 ($20)
Sprucewood Shores Hawk’s Flight Reserve
Unoaked Chardonnay 2013 ($17)
Cave Spring Estate Bottled Chardonnay Musque 2012 ($16)
Coffin Ridge Bone Dry Riesling 2013 ($17)
Rosehall Run Cuvee County Chardonnay 2011 ($22)
Thirty Bench Red 2012 ($24)
Peller Estates Private Reserve Cabernet Franc 2011 ($22)
Lailey Syrah 2012 ($27)
Angels Gate Mountainview Merlot 2012 ($19)
Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc 2012 ($22)

Vintages Classics Collection (Niagara wines)

Vintages put out two new releases in its Classics Collection for Sept. and October. Only two wines from Canada appear in the release. Here they are.

10142086926_f5ea89b686Hidden Bench Nuit Blanche White Meritage 2011 ($40, 91 points, Oct. Classics) — Only a handful of Niagara wineries are making this Bordeaux-inspired style of white Meritage, and only two or three come to mind at this level. Hidden Bench blends 91% Sauvignon Blanc with the rest Semillon. It is barrel fermented and barrel aged. The nose shows elegance and style with subtle tropical fruits, spiced pear, light herbs, honey, lanolin and honeysuckle. It’s creamy on the palate with lovely texture and verve that lifts the tropical and pear fruits. There is an underlying mineral note through the core of this wine. It will benefit from some aging.

Tawse Van Bers Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2010 ($50, Sept. Classics) — I tasted in barrel in Oct., 2011 with winemaker Paul Pender. Even back then this was showing great promise. My notes: Truly unbelievable with rich, highly extracted black fruits and texture, already showing signs of the best Cab Franc made at the estate to date.

A couple of international wines to look for

Dominio de Tares Cepas Viejas Mencia 2009, El Bierzo, Spain ($30, 93 points) — The grapes come from 60-year-old Mencia bush-vines. Such a lovely nose of crushed raspberries, black cherry, fudge, red licorice and vanilla-oak stylings. It’s full-bodied and dark in colour with rich, heady flavours of licorice-tinged red fruits, loam and spice that comes at you in layers. All that and a smooth delivery through the finish.

San Raffaele Mounte Taber Organic Pinot Grigio 2013, Veneto, Italy ($15, 87 points) — A nose of fresh peach, lemon zest and apricots. It’s soft and fruity on the palate with melon, citrus, peach and apricot flavours. A nice refresher or serve with seafood and sushi.