Donald Triggs and his daughter Sara, above photo, are working on only their second vintage of Culmina wines and have already set their sights well beyond the B.C. border.
Culmina is the culmination of a lifetime of work and study in the wine industry for Donald and his wife Elaine. A champion of the Canadian wine industry, Donald Triggs set out to build a family operated winery, a vision that both he and his wife shared. Their daughter Sara, who is experienced in the wine industry and carries a Masters in Wine Business, naturally joined in this family adventure in 2012 and manages the sales and marketing of the business.
After two years of meticulously researching sites, collecting detailed temperature data and conducting water retention and soil analysis studies with Alain Sutre, a Bordeaux-based expert in site selection and winemaking, the ideal terrain was found and acquired on the Golden Mile Bench in the South Okanagan Valley.
Separated into three distinct sites, the property is composed of Arise Bench, Stan’s Bench (in honour of Elaine’s father), and Margaret’s Bench, one of the highest in the Okanagan, a tribute to Donald’s mother.
Their legacy covers over 100 acres, of which 56 are cultivated with 2,044 quality vines planted per acre.
Bordeaux varietals were the main driving force that led to the selection of the Okanagan property, luring classically trained winemaker Pascal Madevon (formerly of Osoyoos Larose) to join the Triggs family in their venture. With over 20 years of winemaking experience in Bordeaux and the South Okanagan, Madevon plays an integral role in the development of Culmina wines.
His first creation was a Bordeaux style blend named Hypothesis, which consists of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Other varietals include Chardonnay, Riesling and the first Gruner Veltliner to be planted in the Okanagan.
The winery uses leading technology in every step of the wine making process. During the planting stage, special narrow width equipment was imported from Europe to accommodate the narrow row spacing, which helps to increase competition amongst the vines, forcing the roots deeper into the sub-soils for water and nutrients.
The success of those first wines is what brought Triggs and his daughter Sara to Toronto last week on an intense mission to get Culmina wines into the biggest city and province in Canada and to convince the LCBO that their Okanagan Valley wines deserve a spot on the shelves of Vintages.
Over a tasty lunch at Toronto’s Canoe, with the most spectacular views of any restaurant in the city, I revisited Trigg’s top wines and got a taste of a couple of new wines I had not tasted.
NOTE: Culmina is represented by Family Wine Merchants in Toronto and consumers will soon be able to buy direct. Many top restaurants have also committed to carry Culmina wines and don’t be surprised if the Hypothesis makes an appearance at Vintages in the very near future.
Here’s what we tasted:
Culmina Hypothesis 2011 ($44 retail price in Ontario, 91 points) — The focus of the Culmina portfolio will always be the creation of this Bordeaux style blend. The blend consists of three Bordeaux varietals: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Petit Verdot and Malbec are expected to be included in the 2015 blend. The nose shows fine cassis, bramble bush, violets, cherry-kirsch fruit and toasted oak spices that evolve in the glass. It has an elegant feel in the mouth with nothing overdone. The just-ripe red and dark fruits and vivid spices are delivered on a bed of firm tannins while the firm acidity offers balance and finesse. A wonderful first effort from young vines. After retrying this wine at Canoe, it has evolved into a much more compact, integrated wine that continues to age beautifully. More mineral than I remember and the fine tannins are softening on the palate. Just a fine, B.C. red blend. The 2012 vintage is being released in B.C. this fall.
Culmina Dilemma 2011 ($26, 90 points) — Made from a small block of 20-year old Chardonnay vines on the Triggs’ family estate, this has a lovely flinty-mineral nose to go with pear, citrus and fine oak undertones. It’s clean and finessed on the palate with everything in balance from the ripe pear-apple fruit to the buttery toast and spice. This was sold out long ago, but after retrying at Canoe I was impressed by the fruit that still rises above the oak and the elegance that has emerged with a bit more time in the bottle.
Culmina Saignee 2013 ($25, 89 points) — Bleeding off a portion of juice from the Hypothesis must, Culmina’s new vintage Saignee is a rare rosé blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose shows ripe strawberry, cherry, violets and hints of rhubarb. It’s made in a lovely dry style on the palate with cherry fruit, pomegranate and a savoury note on the finish.
Culmina Decora 2013 ($23, 91 points) — This was my first taste of the Culmina Riesling and I was impressed. Such a beautiful floral note on the nose with fresh lime, grapefruit and wet-slate mineral. This is a Riesling that’s focused, pristine, laser-sharp and complex, combining a range of citrus on the palate with touches of apple, jasmine and gorgeous mineral notes in a near bone-dry style.
Culmina Unicus 2013 ($27, sold out, 90 points) — This is the Okanagan’s first Grüner Veltliner and only one of two made in B.C. Sadly, I missed tasting this wine when it was released early this summer when I was visiting the Okanagan. It quickly sold out. I can see why; aside from the novelty it’s such a great wine for B.C., pairing well with all things from the sea. The nose exhibits pretty white flowers, flint minerality, lime cordial and crisp apple notes. It has wonderful freshness on the palate with citrus, orange peel, and awash in minerals.
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Haywire
Haywire Baby Bub Pink 2012 ($14 for 375 ml, 90 points) — Just like the big version (750 ml) but in a cute baby bottle with a crown cap. It’s a traditionally made pink sparkler with 51% Pinot Noir and 49% Chardonnay from grapes grown in a cool mountain vineyard site near Oliver. It is simply lovely with cherry, brioche, crisp apple, lime and piecrust notes on the nose. The palate shows a fine mousse with vibrant red fruits made in a crisp, refreshing style.
Haywire Pinot Noir 2012 ($23, 90 points) — The grapes for this Pinot were grown in Secrest Vineyard, a 35-acre cool mountain site above the town of Oliver. The wine is gently aged in old French oak barrels. The nose is all about warm cherry pie, rhubarb and raspberry with just a hint of spice. It is pure and fresh on the palate with broad red-fruit flavours, a touch of spice and good acidity through the finish.
Haywire “Raised in Concrete” Pinot Gris 2013 ($20, 89 points) — Grapes were sourced from the Secrest Vineyard in a cool, mountain setting in Oliver and, as the name suggests, fermented in stainless steel and aged for six months in concrete tanks. It’s fresh and fruity on the nose with notes of melon, lime, pineapple, peach fuzz and lemon verbena. It has a creamy feel on the palate but maintains freshness from a zippy vein of acidity that props up the citrus, pear and melon fruit. A tasty Gris.
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Tinhorn Creek
Tinhorn Creek Cabernet Franc 2012 ($25, 88 points) — Tinhorn gets a lot of mileage out of its Cabernet Franc program, making a rich style of wine from Black Sage vineyards in the warmest part of the Valley. The nose shows black currants, violets, lovely swirling spices, bramble bush and Cuban cigar leaf. It’s nicely balanced on the palate with currants, blackberry, spice and herbs.
Tinhorn Creek Merlot 2012 ($20, 89 points) — A rich, attractive nose of cherry, spice, raspberry, anise and spice. It has bite on the palate with richer spices, a broad spectrum of red fruits, licorice, and earthy-meaty notes all delivered on a smooth finish.
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