If visiting the Foreign Affair Winery in Vineland any time soon you might notice (how can you not?) a new welcoming icon by the front door.
Moosimo is a slightly bigger than life-size fiberglass Canadian moose that majestically greets visitors at the entrance to the winery.
Winery owner Len Crispino spotted the moose in Guelph, Ont. three years ago and just knew he had to have it. The Foreign Affair gang came up with a campaign to bring Moosimo to the winery by asking fans of the winery to take photos of a miniature moose likeness and post them on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram with the hashtag #BringHomeTheMoose (a selection of photos below).
Hundreds of tiny plastic moose were handed out and the photos, from all corners of the Earth, started popping up on social media. The project was so popular Crispino had to order more moose when his first order of 400 ran out.
The real Moosimo, which Crispino struck a hard bargain for, is now part of the lore at the Foreign Affair Winery.
Moosimo fits in perfectly with Foreign Affair’s philosophy of melding Italian winemaking techniques, namely appassimento-style wines, with distinctly Canadian grapes.
“These are not Italian wines,” Crispino, pictured above, insists. “They are Canadian wines uniquely framed by Italian traditions.”
It is a philosophy that Crispino has pioneered in Niagara; taking what Ontario gives you and applying Italian principals — drying the grapes — to produce a range of wines unique in Canada.
A trio of wines soon to be released is a perfect example of what Crispino and his winemaker Barclay Robinson are trying to achieve. I tasted through them recently at the winery with Moosimo standing guard at the door.
Here’s what I can recommend:
Foreign Affair Enchanted 2014 ($18, April release, 90 points) — As far as Crispino is aware, this the “first white Ripasso made in Canada.” It’s a blend of two-thirds Riesling and one-third unoaked Chardonnay with the Chardonnay grapes passed over appassimento Chardonnay grapes to add complexity and texture. The nose shows pear, peach, grapefruit, sweet spice notes and grilled pineapple. It’s fleshy and bold on the palate with a rich broth of orchard fruits and lifted lime and grapefuit notes to keep it fresh and lively.
Foreign Affair Amarose 2015 ($19, June 11 Vintages release, 90 points) — A complicated formula and the first Amarone-style rose Crispino and Robinson have attempted. It’s a blend of 57% Pinot Noir, 22% Riesling and 21% unoaked Chardonnay with 5% of the Riesling and 5% of the Pinot Noir undergoing the appassimento (dried grape) procedure. “There is no formula,” Crispino says, “it’s what we like as a style.” The nose shows cherry, strawberry, violets, and honeydew in a bold, rich entry. The palate displays assertive, substantive strawberries, kirsch with citrus accents and depth of flavour through the finish. This is a rose unlike any other rose being made in Niagara.
Foreign Affair Temptress 2012 ($45, fall release, 93 points) — A spectacular wine that you will want to scoop up when it’s released this fall. It’s a blend of 54% Cabernet Franc, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot and 7% Petit Verdot with 35% of the grapes dried and finished with 15.6% alcohol. The nose is expressive with notes of sweet cigar box, spice box, concentrated blackberry, currants, blueberry and sweet herbs that just don’t quit. Such power on the palate with super-charged black currants, anise, blueberry pie, cocoa, licorice and spice box all propped up by a wall of firm, ripe tannins. This is all about power and tannic structure and is designed for the cellar. There is an exciting future for this wine in five or 10 years. A beauty.
Some other Niagara wines tasted recently:
Henry of Pelham Estate Pinot Noir 2010 ($25, 90 points) — Quite pretty and feminine on the nose with alluring cherry and raspberry with integrated spicy accents. It’s medium bodied with bright red fruits, silky tannins and subtle earth and tobacco notes. A nicely mature Pinot.
Henry of Pelham Estate Chardonnay 2014 (88 points) — Quite expressive on the nose with ripe apple, peach, citrus and toasted spice notes. It’s round and ripe on the palate with orchard fruit flavours, barrel spices and lifted acidity through the finish. Delicious.
Chateau des Charmes Old Vines Riesling 2013 ($17, 90 points) — A lime, citrus, mineral bomb on the nose with subtle notes of quince and grapefruit. The David’s minerality defines this lovely Riesling on the palate with swirling citrus, grapefruit, spiced apple and a kiss of honey. Quite lovely.
Chateau des Charmes Cabernet Franc 2013 ($14, 87 points) — A nose of raspberry, cherry, herbs and subtle spices. It’s soft and smooth on the palate with a friendly delivery, well-integrated red fruits, soft tannins and light spice.
Niagara wines released at Vintages stores on Saturday (none have been reviewed):
• Cave Spring Estate Bottled Chardonnay Musque 2014 ($17)
• Coyote’s Run Pinot Gris 2014 ($17)
• Featherstone Four Feathers 2015 ($15)
• Henry of Pelham Estate Riesling 2012 ($18)
• Tzafona Cellars Cold Climate Riesling KP 2014 ($20)
• Coyote’s Run Red Paw Vineyard Pinot Noir 2013 ($25)
• G. Marquis The Silver Line Epic 2010 ($30)
• Nomad Wanderlust 2013 ($25)
A smart buy from California in the Vintages release:
Kenwood Jack London Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2012, Sonoma Mountain ($40, 90 points) — With the extremely high prices we pay for California wines I find this a relative bargain. It’s from Sonoma and shows rich black cherry, concentrated blackberries and integrated herbs and spices on the nose. It’s bold and tasty on the palate with a core of cherry, currants and blackberries all bolstered by lovely spice and supple tannins. Good value Cali.
A nice Cognac to consider:
Courvoisier Connoisseur Collection Aged 12 Years Cognac ($90, Vintages now, 92 points) — A special bottling that sees oak for 12 years. The nose shows sweet vanilla, oak-inspired spices, caramel, toffee, dried fruits and subtle peat smoke. It’s like velvet on the palate, so smooth and rich with smoky/creamy dried fruits, toasted vanilla and toffee flavours that linger on the finish.
A pile of wines to watch for at Vintages (some of these wines are destined for Ontario Vintages stores or are under consideration by the LCBO):
California
La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2013 ($30, 90 points) — A spicy nose with ripe black cherry, cassis, elegant oak spices, bramble and raspberry. This is nicely balanced with rockin’ red fruits, plums, nutmeg spice and a soft, silky delivery through the finish. Delicious Cali Pinot.
Italy
Arcangelo Cuccuvaia Toscana IGT 2009 ($48, 92 points) — This 100% Sangiovese made from organic grapes spends five years in oak puncheons and rests another two years prior to release. It has an expressive nose of deep, rich plums, currants, cherry extract, blueberry, herbs and profound oak barrel spices. It’s fruit saturated on the palate with notes of graphite, a range of dark fruits, kirsch, toasted vanilla and spice and a mouthful of ripe tannins that all needs a bit of time to harmonize. When it does … watch out, a beautiful wine awaits.
Arcangelo Pavone Toscana IGT 2013 ($41, 92 points) — Wild fermented, 100% Sangiovese made from organic grapes with a nose of cassis, currants, cherry jam, oak spice and plums. It is loaded with dark and juicy fruits on the palate with firm, structured tannins, depth, concentration and a certain earthy feel on the finish. Another candidate for the cellar.
Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico DOCG 2013 ($25, 88 points) — A blend of 85% Sangiovese and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, the aromatic nose shows raspberry-cherry fruit, bramble, vanilla and baker’s rack spices. It’s nicely structured but not too firm with fine tannins, crushed red fruits, earth and length through the finish.
Poggio Torselli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2011 ($30, 91 points) — Lovely, text-book 100% Sangiovese Riserva with a basket of red fruits, forest floor, plums and woodsy barrel spices on the nose. In the mouth this red shows a mélange of red fruits, sweet tannins, well-integrated spice, bramble with good length through the finish.
Poggio Torselli Torsellino del Poggio IGT 2013 ($15, 87 points) — This 100% Sangiovese is aged for 12 months in stainless tanks. It’s about freshness on the palate with notes of cassis, red plum, cherry and violets. It possesses light tannins, fresh red fruits and a touch of earthiness. Good quaffer.
Bellini Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2013 ($20, 88 points) — A blend of 90% Sangiovese with a splash each of Canaiolo and Colorino with oak aging for 24 months. Everything is done in moderation here with a nose of forest floor, red berries and light spice. It’s bright and cheery on the palate with integrated red fruits, a deft touch with the barrel spices and moderate spices.
Bellini Comedia Rosso Toscana IGT 2013 ($18, 89 points) — The blend is 50% Sangiovese, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Syrah with eight months in French barriques. The nose is rustic with woodsy aromas, red berries, spice and toasted vanilla accents. Softish tannins on the palate but well structured and loaded with cherry, raspberry and oak spice. Drinking fine right now.
La Torre San Gimignano Rosso 2011 ($21, 90 points) — The blend is 70% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and rest Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose shows intense crushed raspberries, cherry and subtle cassis, spice box, cedar and toasted vanilla. It’s smooth and perfectly mature on the palate with earthy red fruits, will integrated spice and perfect balance.
La Torre Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva 2013 ($20, 88 points) — A blend of 80% Sangiovese with a nose succulent dark wild berries, bramble, anise, currants and spice box. It has medium body on the palate with ripe dark fruits, integrated spice and sweet tannins.
Dominante Rosso Toscano IGT 2013 ($20, 88 points) — A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah with a nose of black currants, dried herbs, spice, red jam and violets. It’s more complex on the palate with ripe and assertive tannins, dark fruits, a touch of cherry and licorice with firm structure.
La Torre Chianti Senesi 2013 ($14, 87 points) — A simple but fresh and delicious Chianti with a nose of mulberry, blueberry, currants, violets and herbs. It has medium body on the palate and bursts with fresh fruit flavours, subtle spice notes and smooth tannins.
Villa de Capezzana Carmignano 2012 ($34, 92 points) — The blend is 80% Sangiovese with the rest Cabernet Sauvignon and aged 12 months in French oak. The nose shows penetrating spicy red fruits, cloves, barrel oak nuances and black currants. On the palate look for sweet, ripe tannins, a well-balanced basket of red fruits, oak spice in an elegant, yet structured package that shows length and polish through the finish.
Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano 2014 ($20, 88 points) — The blend is 70% Sangiovese with the rest split between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc with six months aging in French oak. A nose of intense cherry, raspberry, red licorice, some herbs and light spice notes. It has medium body on the palate with red fruits, soft tannins and subtle spice notes.
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