It’s been nearly two years since 2027 Cellars owner and winemaker Kevin Panagapka, in photo above, left the “virtual” world of crafting single-vineyard Niagara wines and acquired his own manufacturing licence.
The switch from virtual status, operating under the licence of a host winery, to acquiring a manufacturing licence means consumers cannot purchase his wines other than at restaurants or the LCBO. “It’s my wine now, I own my own wines,” Panagapka told me at the time. Under a virtual licence, the wines he crafted at a host winery were technically owned by the host. For Panagapka, luckily he has always enjoyed a close and friendly relationship with Featherstone Winery in Vineland where he still makes the wine and helps winemaker David Johnson at the winery.
The new manufacturing licence allows Panagapka to sell his wines directly to restaurants and the LCBO, in the same way that other “modified” virtual wineries, such as Union and Thomas Bachelder, operate.
It was a bit of a loss on the direct consumer side as they could no longer visit Featherstone and purchase 2027 wines. But, as Panagapka sells most his wines to some of the finest restaurants in Ontario and has good representation through the Vintages program, it has turned out to be a good decision in the long run.
Looking forward, Panagapka tells me, as we taste through some new releases at Featherstone: “This year I’m throwing everything I can at Vintages.” He says the LCBO has been quite impressed with his wines, they do well once they are released and consumers jump at the chance to get their hands on his 2027 collection of wines that consist mainly of single-vineyard Pinots, Chardonnays, Rieslings and more recently, sparkling wines.
For now, it’s working well for Panagapka: “But I need a real home at some point,” he says. “I’m working on it.”
New to the 2027 portfolio is a vintage dated Blanc de Blancs sparkling wine from the Queenston Road Vineyard on the St. Davids Bench. This follows up from the debut traditionally-made sparkler crafted from Pinot and Chardonnay with zero dosage (no sugar added).
Panagapka has also added a new single-vineyard Chardonnay from the Aberdeen Road Vineyard on the Beamsville Bench, a tantalizing partner for his Wismer Vineyard — Fox Croft bottling that he has reshaped for 2013.
Here’s what we tasted from the upcoming releases.
2027 Cellars Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Queenston Road Vineyard 2013 ($30, 92 points) —Sparse use of added sugar here with a 4.5 g/l dosage in this 100% single-vineyard Chardonnay bubbly. A vigorous bubble in the glass with a nose of flinty minerality, baked bread, citrus and green apple. It’s energetic and fresh on the palate with tangy lemon-citrus notes, apple and flint notes that is juicy yet austere at this early stage. It won’t be released for a bit, which will allow more creamy notes and roundness to emerge.
2027 Cellars Pinot Queenston Road Vineyard St. Davids Bench 2013 ($35, 92 points) — Panagapka calls 2013 vintage “the best Pinot year I’ve seen.” He’s always preferred the more masculine style of Pinot in Niagara and has left the 2013 in barrels longer (18 months) and increased the percentage of new oak (40%). It’s wild fermented and unfined but he did filter the wine. It has deep, rich aromatics of black cherry, earthy raspberry bush, concentrated cassis and a range of stylistic oak spices. It has grippy tannins and structure on the palate with earthy red fruits, a full range of barrel spices, with plenty of depth and power. This is a Pinot built to last five-plus years.
2027 Cellars Wismer Vineyard — Fox Croft Block Chardonnay 2013 ($23, 90 points) — A bit of a departure for Panagapka as this wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation and the oak was dialed down to 30% new in barrels for 14 months. Such a pretty nose of mineral-rich pear and apple with toasted spice notes. It shows elegant, reserved spice on the palate with subtle creaminess, layered orchard fruits and a gorgeous vein of minerality. A lot of wine here for the price.
2027 Cellars Aberdeen Road Vineyard Chardonnay 2013 ($30, 93 points) — So, Panagapka dials “everything” up a notch for this Beamsville Bench Chard — 18 months in French oak and full malo — that is sure to turn a few heads. The nose is gorgeous with penetrating notes of ripe apple, citrus, poached pear and a range of elegant oak spices. It is broad and complex on the palate with rich and creamy fruit, toasted oak spices and length through a long finish. The acidity is maintained to lift the range of fruit and help this wine sustain its integrity. Wonderful stuff here.
Congratulations. It looks and sounds exciting. Cannot wait to try them both.
Bill