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Niagara diners rejoice – Bolete is here

By Michael Lowe

I can’t remember the last time I have witnessed such anticipation of a restaurant opening in downtown St. Catharines. In the case of Chef Andrew McLeod’s sparkling new space, Bolete, the anticipation is justly warranted.

Bolete’s distinctive gray, black, and white design stands out on the St. Paul streetscape, creating a striking addition to the area. The restaurant’s name is taken from a family of wild mushrooms, genus boletus, representing a fairly large variety of species, including the aromatic porcini. Perhaps it is fitting then that the name of a simple wild ingredient emblazoned on the storefront gives a clue to what to expect inside. Last Thursday was the first of three days of soft openings in preparation for this week’s official opening. By social media accounts, the openings were attended by chefs, winemakers, local business owners, and media folks all clamouring to get a taste of what Bolete stands for.

Chef McLeod has transformed the 150-year-old space into a modern, cool, comfortable restaurant. Clean and simple is a theme here – from the design (below photo), to the functional open kitchen, to the compositions on the plates. Even the chefs (Chef McLeod top photo above) don plaid shirts and aprons instead of the staid, starched whites. But that seems to be the point at Bolete.

Chef McLeod told Rick VanSickle in an interview (read here) last week that diners can expect, “well-composed delicious plates.” During a brief pre-dinner chat McLeod, looking seriously focused, told me, “It’s all about consistency.” Leaving chef to get on with service we sit and partake of inari – little “bags” of tofu filled with quinoa, black rice and dried cherries seasoned with lapsang (below photo).

The result is slightly smoky, nutty, wholesome and texturally satisfying.

The next plates out further express the concept of using a few high quality ingredients that complement each other (clockwise from left above). Albacore tuna crudo with shaved fennel, celery, and avocado puree is accented with the bite of chilies and lime and balanced by the sweetness of caramelized soy. Smoked goat cheese accompanies a fresh kale salad dressed with brown butter and a touch of sherry. Toasted slivers of hazelnut add texture while fresh sage underpins this cohesive taste sensation. The robust flavour of slow-cooked beef, packaged in won ton wrappers, is bolstered by a heady, earthy mushroom broth – the earthy flavours punctuated by pickled shitake mushrooms.

Lake Huron pickerel (below photo) with a spectacular crisp and perfectly seasoned skin is partnered with cauliflower, fingerling potatoes, brown butter and pancetta. A touch of citrus balances the richness and flavours are, once again, harmonious and comforting.

Seasonal flavours of roasted carrot, radish and Brussels sprout leaves sit on a bed of tender pearl barley (below photo). A bit of caramelized apple accentuates the natural sweetness and black walnut ties the nutty barley in beautifully.

Aged, incredibly tender, well-marbled P.E.I. beef is the star of a dish supported by chanterelles, charred onion and horseradish with bordelaise sauce (below photo). The dish is another display of masterful cooking and integrated, rich flavours.

Dessert (clockwise from the top, below photo) includes matcha panna cotta, a deconstructed parmesan and pear cheesecake, and malt chocolate macarons with blackberry “Whopper” genache and spiced hazelnuts. Textural elements, a seamless amalgamation of flavour and a not-too-sweet theme prevails here too.

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When you combine the aforementioned dishes with a fantastic, locally inspired wine list, craft beers and ciders, and well-trained wait staff, you have a winning combination. Bolete has the stuff to put St. Paul Street on Niagara’s culinary map. Bolete opened to the public Tuesday. Kudos to Chef Andrew McLeod and his team for raising the bar when it comes to dining downtown.