By Rick VanSickle
Niagara’s Foreign Affair winery was founded on the premise that the appassimento style of winemaking touched all the wines made in the portfolio.
It was the dream of founders Len and Marisa Crispino, who were living as expats in Italy when they discovered the wonders of appassimento wines from Amarone.
The more they learned about this technique and grew to love these wines, the more excited they became at the prospect of bringing this style of winemaking back with them to Ontario.
In 2000, taking a leap of faith, the Crispinos, above, bought 40 acres of prime farmland in the Vinemount Ridge sub-appellation of Niagara’s Twenty Valley wine region, starting their journey to becoming trailblazers of appassimento winemaking in Canada.
They sourced quality vinifera varietals from Europe, and after three years of carefully nurturing vines, 2004 became the inaugural vintage of Foreign Affair wines.
The former head of the Ontario Chamber of Commerce and his wife Marisa planted the first grapes for Foreign Affair in 2001 with the first vintage of wine in 2004 and the winery opening in 2008.
Crispino’s taste for the dried grape style of wines made in the Veneto region of Italy was fuelled partially by the wines from the legendary late Giuseppe Quintarelli. And chasing that style would be employed in small or large amounts in all the wines made at Foreign Affair, whether it made perfect sense or not.
The Crispinos sold their beloved winery, located at the Vineland Research and Innovation Centre compound on Victoria Ave. North, in 2017 to Canadian drinks giant Corby Spirit and Wine Limited for an eye-popping $6.2 million, with Barclay Robinson at the helm of the winemaking operation, following closely to what the former owners had begun — a predominantly dried grape style of wine through nearly every bottle of wine.
Barclay, an accomplished winemaker, left Foreign Affair in the spring of 2020 to become the head winemaker at Road 13 in the Okanagan Valley, which opened the door for Foreign Affair to hire René Van Ede, the former winemaker at Redstone winery. The changes, for both the new owners of Foreign Affair and the new winemaker, brought about a fresh approach to the all-encompassing appassimento style of winemaking at the estate winery.
As fate would have it, the spectacular 2020 vintage — the warmest in decades — would be the starting point for a new direction in how and what wines would be subject to appassimento winemaking.
As estate sommelier Ed Haddon put it: “René got lucky, and we got lucky with René” with the 2020 vintage and the perfect window to dial back the strict approach to appassimento wines.
Van Ede’s strategy is to only “use dried grapes when it makes sense,” he explained during a portfolio tasting recently. From what we tasted, only one white wine contained dried grapes, the Sussreserve Riesling 2022. Neither of two rosés employed appassimento, and for the first time, a Bordeaux variety red, the Petit Verdot 2020, had zero dried grapes in it. “We’re being a little less dogmatic about making wine,” Haddon said.
As for Van Ede (above), even the big red wines where dried grapes are still a part of the portfolio are being used more as a tool than a philosophy. The winemaker is drying grapes to reach a certain level of brix, say 26 brix or so, instead of a more formulaic approach. Van Ede has pushed the levels of dried grapes down dramatically. For example, The Temptress, which used about 20% dried grapes previously was cut in half for the 2020 vintage. The Cabernet Sauvignon is down to 8% dried grapes and the Syrah only has a small amount of Merlot appassimento added to the mix.
In 2020, “I didn’t know what I was doing,” said Van Ede, who had not made appassimento wines in the past, “so I made sure I knew what I was doing. I know math!”
Other changes at the estate include a rebranding and approach to what used to be the flagship wine at Foreign Affair — the Cabernet Franc, a 100% appassimento wine. It’s still being made, but it is now only about 10% dried grapes, and another tier, under a unique label and a proprietary name — the L’eredita — has emerged as a homage to Len and Marisa Crispino. It’s 100% Cabernet Franc and 100% dried grapes (up to 28 brix) made in the style the founders always envisioned for Foreign Affair. It’s a nice touch and a perfect tribute wine for the Crispinos who helped shape the mosaic that is Niagara and were leaders in the appassimento style of wines in Ontario.
Another change at Foreign Affair since I last visited in 2019, is differentiating core wines from the Small Lot offerings, that have black labels. This signifies that the wine is a product of the vintage and may or may not be made in every vintage.
I like the direction Van Ede and Haddon are taking Foreign Affair, while I also respect and appreciate the roots of the estate and the vision Len Crispino had for a different approach to Niagara wines.
Here’s what I liked from my tasting with Van Ede and Haddon:
The Bubbles
Foreign Affair Blanc de Blanc 2021 ($35, released in June, 92 points) — This is the second vintage of the Blanc de Blanc, 100% Chardonnay that spent 12 months on the lees. Van Ede plans to build this sparkling year by year and build up the lees aging. It’s finished with zero dosage. It has a fresh and lively nose of lemon biscuit, crisp apple with peach and pear skin. It’s bright on the palate with a vigorous bead and energetic acidity that lifts the fresh lemon, apple and subtle biscuit notes through a lifted finish.
Foreign Affair Rosé Brut NV ($25, Vintages, 89 points) — A smartly priced charmat style blend of Riesling with a bit of Gamay and Malbec (mostly for colour). It’s bright and lively on the nose with persistent effervescence and plenty of citrus, apple, and red/dark berries. It’s flavourful and zesty on the palate with citrus, green apple, and berries. “This is just way more fun than serious sparkling,” said Van Ede. “I have no problem crushing this bottle.”
The White Wines
Foreign Affair Sauvignon Blanc 2021 ($25, winery now, 90 points) — Cool winters haven’t been kind to Sauvignon Blanc and, unfortunately, this is the end of the line for this grape in the estate’s Crispino Vineyard. The fruit is aged in tank for 12 months with just a smidge of new oak. It has a personable nose of passionfruit, grapefruit, kiwi, pear, and subtle spice notes. It has a creamy texture with pear, grapefruit, juicy passionfruit, and subtle herbaceous notes. A tasty Sauv Blanc.
Foreign Affair Viognier 2022 ($25, winery now, 89 points) — High-toned aromatics of honeysuckle, apricots, peach, and lemon blossoms. It has a round texture on the palate with layers of apricot tart, summer peaches and candied citrus with enough zip on the finish to keep it fresh.
Foreign Affair Süssreserve Riesling 2022 ($25, 91 points) — Van Ede thought this Riesling was one white wine that might benefit from a bit appassimento grapes introduced to the Riesling, so 9% of dried Riesling was blended in to “bring out more of those apricot notes to the wine,” he said. It has a ripe nose peach preserve, pronounced apricots, poached pear and lime cordial. It’s mouth-coating and vibrant with flavours of apricot, peach, some citrus/lime zest and nicely balanced on the finish. A very different take on Riesling that gets your full attention.
The Rosés
Foreign Affair Amarosé 2022 ($20, Vintages, 88 points) — A consistently solid rosé with a mix of Gamay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc that is tweaked every vintage to maintain the style from vintage to vintage. It’s bright and fresh on the nose pretty red berries, cranberries and a pinch of citrus. It’s dry but the red berries are ripe and vigorous with lemon/citrus accents and juicy acidity on the finish.
Foreign Affair Gamay Rosé 2022 ($25, released in June, 92 points) — The Gamay rosé, bottled under the “small lot” label, is a bit more serious and changes every vintage from variety to variety. It shows a light garnet colour in the glass and is richly fruited on the nose with plums, strawberries, cherries, citrus zest, and a touch of savoury/earthy notes. It’s perfectly dry on the palate with an array of ripe plums, red berries, savoury notes, and a lifted, brisk finish. We tasted this beside a tank sample of the 2022 regular Gamay, which followed in line with the rosé version with plenty of savoury red berries, plums, and subtle spice from some oak aging.
The Red Wines
Foreign Affair Conspiracy 2020 ($20, Vintages Essential with vintage turnover likely in September when the 2019 runs out, 93 points) — Here’s a hot tip for you … this is a stunning wine for the price, a wine you can have on hand for guests, and it won’t break the bank. This is a Ripasso style red wine that is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot from the warm, excellent 2020 vintage. It has a gorgeous nose of black cherries, cassis, kirsch, black currants, and integrated spice notes. It’s structured on the palate with firm tannins and is saturated in dark berries, kirsch, plums, anise, and rich spice notes all leading to a vibrant, long and lifted finish. As I said, a bargain at this price. I wouldn’t wait for fall, ask for it at the winery and tuck some away in the cellar for a few years.
Foreign Affair Dream 2020 ($30, winery now, 91 points) — Dream is a partial appassimento blend of Merlot (48%), Cabernet Sauvignon (38%), and Cabernet Franc (16%) with half the Cab Franc dried grapes. The wine spends 18 months in French and American oak (25% new wood). This is a bit more subtle on the nose than the Conspiracy, which suggests a little time in the cellar would be helpful. It has an elegant nose of concentrated cassis, black currants, cocoa, and baking spices. It’s more overt on the palate with ripe tannins, cassis, currants, blackberries, dark cherries, licorice, cedar, and fine oak spice with plenty of acidity keeping the finish lively. Can cellar a few years.
Foreign Affair Temptress 2020 ($50, fall release, 93 points) — Winemaker Van Ede is using the appassimento style of dried grapes much more judiciously than previous winemakers at Foreign Affair. The Temptress from 2020 is a good example of that. This wine, a blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot from the Crispino Vineyard only uses about 11% of dried grapes to get to 26 brix or so. Previously, it was as high as 20% appassimento. “I like to show a bit more of the place there (Crispino Vineyard),” said Van Ede. “It was a great year to tell the story of this vineyard.” Oak aging was 18 months with 25% new oak barrels. It has a beautiful nose of plums, dark cherries, pretty floral notes, herbs, cassis and fine oak spices. It’s mouth filling, concentrated, rich and layered with plums, ripe red berries, cassis, cocoa, and anise all bolstered by ripe tannins and verve through the finish.
Foreign Affair Cabernet Sauvignon Re-passed Reserve 2020 ($35, fall release, 92 points) — This ripasso style Cab shows a highly aromatic nose of cherry/kirsch, black currants, earth, plums, toasty vanilla bean and spice. It has a firm tannic backbone on the palate with ripe red and dark berries, black licorice, baking spices and a long, lifted finish.
Foreign Affair Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($45, fall release, 93 points) — Only 8% of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were dried. It has a tight nose at the moment of mostly meaty, dark berries, anise and earthy/savoury notes with a touch of umami and spice. It’s highly structured on the palate with a firm tannic backbone followed by a rich array of dark berries, fresh-turned soil, earthy notes, and spice with a finely textured finish bolstered by mouth-watering acidity. Can cellar 8+ years.
Foreign Affair Cabernet Sauvignon Whisky Barrelled 2020 ($65, winery now, 92 points) — After the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes (25% appassimento) were fermented, the wine was aged in used Pike Creek (also in the Corby Spirit family) whisky barrels for six months. Pike Creek ships the barrels to Foreign Affair aging this wine and then the barrels are returned to Pike Creek to age a special whisky using the same barrels. It has a bright nose of sweet cedar, graphite, ripe cherries, cassis, blackberries, and perfumed spice notes. It’s firm and structured on the palate with dense dark and red berries, all spice, and a long, finessed finish. Can cellar 7+ years.
Foreign Affair Syrah 2020 ($45, winery now, 92 points) — Only a touch of dried grapes (14% Merlot) was used to complement the Syrah grapes with aging in oak (11% new oak). It has a smoky, meaty nose with dark berries, boysenberries, earthy/savoury notes, black peppercorns, and spice. It has approachable tannins on the palate with dark and red berries, leather, smoky/savoury notes, pepper, and finesse on a nicely balanced finish.
Foreign Affair Petit Verdot 2020 ($45, winery now, 93 points) — No dried grapes were used to make this Petit Verdot, the first red wine not made using the appassimento method since the winery started. “Appassimento just makes a big wine bigger,” said Van Ede. “It was a beast.” The wine spent 18 months in a combination of French and America oak, 20% new oak. It has rugged beauty on the nose with black raspberries, pencil shavings, eucalypt, minty herbs, cassis, blueberry pie and spice. It’s lovely on the palate with layers of dense, pure dark and red berries, herbs, barrel spice notes, firm tannic structure, and a lifted, long finish. Can cellar 7+ years.
Foreign Affair Cabernet Franc 2020 ($45, winery now, 93 points) — This particular 100% Cabernet Franc bottling was once the flagship red at Foreign Affair and employed 100% dried grapes regardless of vintage or style year to year. Van Ede and Haddon have created a separate label for the flagship red and renamed it L’eredita (see below). This is made with 7% dried Cabernet Franc. The fruit was harvested from the Crispino Vineyard in the Vinemount Ridge sub-appellation on Nov. 3. After fermentation, the wine was aged in 14% new oak. It has a lovely nose of mulled red berries, tar, cassis, baking spices, earthy notes, herbs, and leather. It shows solid structure on the palate with thick and rich red berries, cassis, anise, minty herbs, spice rack and a long, lifted finish. This wine has many good years ahead. Cellar 10+ years.
The Flagship
Foreign Affair L’eredita 2020 ($110, new year, 95 points) — The new flagship wine, a mostly 100% appassimento style Cabernet Franc finished to 28 brix and 15.8 abv, was hand-crafted from the first vines ever planted at the Crispino Estate Vineyard. The name L’eredita means Legacy, in honour of the winery’s founders Len and Marisa Crispino. What a gorgeous wine with a seductive, sublime nose of concentrated black raspberries, figs, dark cherries, cocoa, blackcurrants, leather, and fine oak spices. It’s thick, layered and comes at you in waves on the palate along a firm bed of ripe tannins. Look for currants, dried figs, anise, eucalypt, kirsch, mulled herbs, jammy red berries, plums, fine oak spices and an incredibly long, lifted finish. This will keep getting better in the cellar for 15+ years.
The Sweetie
Foreign Affair Riesling Appassimento 2022 ($35 for 375 mL, winery now, 92 points) — Made from 100% Riesling with 9% of the fruit dried. The nose shows profound lime, peach, honeysuckle, poached pear, and citrus zest. It’s an exotic treat on the palate with layers of peach, lime, honey notes, pear, and lemon curd with gorgeous texture and a zippy, lifted finish.
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