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Poetica in motion for Southbrook’s flagship red, plus a deep dive into portfolio

By Rick VanSickle

All roads have led to Southbrook Vineyards ever since winemaker Casey Hogan got his first taste of the organic winery’s virtues nearly 10 years ago.

It was a short, four-month stint in 2013 but the winemaker at the time, Ann Sperling, left such an impression on Hogan that he pursued the industry through education and experience before reuniting with Sperling both as a harvest intern at Sperling Vineyards in the Okanagan Valley in 2014 and after many stops along the way, was hired as Southbrook’s assistant winemaker in 2019.

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“Her style is my style,” Hogan, above, explained during a recent portfolio tasting at Southbrook. “I’ve learned a lot from her, Peter (Gamble, Sperling’s husband) and Thomas (Bachelder Wines). My style is based on them, they are my mentors.”

Hogan took over the role as head winemaker at the end of 2021 after Sperling decided to slow down a bit after 17 years at Southbrook. Slowing down is a relative word when describing Sperling’s work ethic. She is still making wine at the revived Lailey winery in Niagara with Gamble as well as at her family’s winery in Kelowna and at the winery the couple own in Argentina called Versado.

In between that first experience at Southbrook and returning to Southbrook in 2919, Hogan completed his BSc in oenology and viticulture (honours) with “first class standing” at Brock and worked in wineries in Margaret River, Central Otago, Willamette Valley, the Okanagan Valley and and back to Niagara. He has always been “an advocate for organic” farming, and there is no bigger champion for sustainable grape growing than Southbrook owner Bill Redelmeier and former winemaker Sperling.

It’s fair to say that Hogan fits nicely into the role as winemaker at Southbrook and has no plans to veer from the style of wines Sperling made through several tiers at the estate winery located on Niagara Stone Road in Niagara-on-the-Lake. He admits to having “a particular interest in sparkling wines” and already has his first bottling of the new Poetica Traditional Method NV sparkling wine under his belt (see review below). Other than a keen interest in sparkling wines, Hogan wants to extend elevage for some of the Bordeaux varietals and he wants to use more amphora vessels for aging the lighter bodied red wines.

Hogan and assistant winemaker Emily Lacey (the daughter of Lacey Estates owners Kimball and Liz Lacey from Prince Edward County) are just in the process of releasing a new batch of wines that will be released over the spring and summer months. It’s an impressive body of work, notably the red wines from Ontario’s best vintage ever, 2020.

Leading the way is the absolutely stunning flagship red, made only in the best vintages, the Southbrook Poetica Red 2020. With three styles of Poetica now in the portfolio with the inclusion of the first bubbly, the white is always made of Chardonnay and the red is a Bordeaux blend of estate fruit from the best barrels. The 2020 version of the red Poetica is the best that has been made since I’ve been writing about Southbrook wines. It is among the best red wines I have tasted from Ontario ever and it is scored accordingly.

Here is what I liked from my tasting with Hogan:

The bubbly

Southbrook Poetica Traditional Method ($70, summer release, 93 points) — This is the first “Poetica” sparkling wine to be made at Southbrook, joining the Poetica Chardonnay and Poetica Red as the flagship wines at the winery. It’s a non-vintage, 100% Chardonnay triaged in 2018 and disgorged in 2023 after 50 months of sitting on the lees. It’s finished with zero dosage. It shows a lovely golden colour in the glass with an elegant bead. The creamy, autolytic notes are evident on the nose with lemon tart, yellow apple, and pear notes. It’s crisp, vibrant, and elegantly bubbly on the palate with apple/quince and lemon curd and a nice complex array of creamy/nutty/brioche notes all leading to a vibrant finish driven by mouth watering acidity. The fine bead is persistent through the finish. Fantastic, well-aged bubbly.

The Chardonnays

Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay 2019 ($27, available now, 91 points) — The fruit for this Chard is sourced from various organic growing partners in Niagara and is aged in 300L neutral French oak barrels for 10 months. It’s highly aromatic on the nose with ripe pear, golden apple, pear, bergamot, and freshening salinity with a touch of flint. It has a creamy texture on the palate with ripe orchard fruits, lemon curd, understated oak spices and a juicy, lifted finish. Delightful now or with a bit of cellaring.

Southbrook Saunders Family Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 ($38, 93 points) — The Saunders Family farm on the Beamsville Bench is a favourite of Southbrook. It adds a different terroir to the lineup of estate wines and share organic farming practises. This is selection of five barrels (two new) that was aged in oak for 10 months on the lees. It is much more subtle and elegant on the nose than the Triomphe with wisps of apple, lemon, pear skin, stony minerality and spice accents. Quite tight right right now, but swirl and it reveals layers of apples, peaches, pears and fresh lemon zest and wet stones with a lingering, long, vibrant finish. Can cellar 5+ years and will benefit from a short decant if drinking now.

Southbrook Poetica Chardonnay 2004 ($100, library release now) — Hogan poured this library wine that’s nearly 20 years old and is being offered to consumers in a limited release. The 2004 vintage was cool and humid, but a warm fall enabled the Chardonnay grapes to fully ripen. It has a mature nose of mulled orchard fruits, caramel/toffee notes, stony minerality and baking spices. The mature fruits are fully integrated and tiring a bit on the palate, but it holds interest in the complexity and nuances from the tertiary flavours and spices. There’s an interesting herbaceous note and some vibrancy lingering on the finish. A fascinating look at an older Chardonnay and how it evolves.

The Orange

Southbrook Whimsy! Orange Riesling 2022 ($45, likely released on Earth Day, 89 points) — This Orange Riesling was 100% de-stemmed, spent 2.5 weeks on the skins to give it a light tangerine glow in the glass, then pressed, racked and that’s it, says Hogan. There was no filtering or fining and only minimal sulphur added at bottling. It shows a touch cloudy in the glass with aromas of lemon-lime marmalade, grapefruit peel, savoury notes, and peach skin. Some tannins are evident on the palate with notes of muddled citrus, earthy/savoury accents, citrus peel and bright acidity on a vibrant finish.

The Gamays

Southbrook Triomphe Gamay 2021 ($29, Vintages, previously reviewed, 92 points) — Hogan prefers that the estate Gamays have some oak, in this case 100% neutral French oak for 9 months, to give the wines added texture and complexity. It shows lovely brambly raspberries, plums, dark cherries, and rhubarb with pepper, herbs, and anise accents. It’s smooth on the palate with modest structure then bright red berries, savoury/earthy notes, plums, red currants and subtle pepper and spice all leading to a vibrant finish. Can cellar 3+ years if so inclined but drinking great right not.

Southbrook Laundry Vineyard Gamay 2021 ($35, summer release, 92 points) — The Laundry Vineyard version of Gamay is aged for 14 months in a combination of amphora and neutral oak barrels. It has a pretty nose of fresh raspberries and summer strawberries with subtle cran-cherry and light spice notes. It’s quite smooth, clean, and fresh on the palate with a melange of red berries, subtle earthy notes, a pinch of spice and a lifted, bright finish.

The Cabernet Francs

Southbrook Laundry Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2019 ($35, winery now, 92 points) – The grapes were hand harvested from the Laundry Vineyard located in the Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation. Grapes were destemmed and crushed on top of whole cluster grapes before indigenous fermentation and malolactic conversion in oak vat. Following a total maceration time of one month, the grapes were gently pressed, and the wine settled before barrel aging for 13 months. The best five barrels were then selected and blended to create this wine. It has a nose of violets, minty herbs, wild raspberries and cherries, plums and integrate spices. It’s generous and bright on the palate with medium+ tannins, an array of red berries, some peppery/herbaceous notes, anise, and plenty of mouth-watering acidity keeping it lively on the finish.

Southbrook Estate Cabernet Franc 2020 ($35, late summer release, 94 points) — This was extremely tight when first tasted, so I went back to it after 24 hours and then 48 hours and it began to show its true colours. It’s pure and rich on the nose with a layered and seductive melange of ripe red berries, dense cassis and ever so subtle herbs, spice, and pencil shavings. It turns to darker fruits on the palate with red berry accents, Espresso bean, savoury/earthy notes, a subtle note of eucalypt and spice in a rich and concentrated style that shows some structure from the soft tannins all leading a lifted, long finish. This is top-drawer Cab Franc with a 10-year plus cellar window — maybe more.

The Merlots

Southbrook Estate Merlot 2020 ($48, winery now, 92 points) — The first of the 2020 Bordeaux variety reds spends 18 months in French oak barrels (30% new oak). The nose shows dense dark cherries, ripe raspberries, cassis, plums and elegant oak spice notes. It’s juicy and concentrated on the palate with an array of red berries leading the charge followed by cassis, anise, a touch of earthiness and fine oak spices. The ripe, plush tannins provide structure for the luscious fruits along a lifted and long finish. This is a classic example of the 2020 vintages working its magic on the bolder red wines of Niagara. Can cellar 7+ years.

NOTE: Southbrook is also debuting an Estate Merlot 2020 called “Sol & Luna Barrels” that’s made similarly as the Merlot above, except that the wine is aged in oak from trees that have been cut down on specific dates according to the moon calendar. In other words, a biodynamic oak-aged rendition. The two Merlots are very close to the same profile, according to my palate, but the challenge is there for consumers to discover a new tool in the winemaker’s box of tricks and spot the differences in the wines.

The Petit Verdot

Southbrook Estate Petit Verdot 2020 ($48, winery now, 92 points) — The fruit spends 18 months in French oak barrels (33% new oak). The nose shows savoury cherry notes with wild raspberries, black currants, nuanced spice notes and a subtle floral/earthy accent. The ripe array of red berries is joined on the palate by purple plums, anise/licorice, subtle earthy notes, fine tannins, and elegant spices on a long, lifted finish. Another banger! Cellar up to 10 years (maybe more)

The Cabernet Sauvignons

Southbrook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($48, 93 points) — The first of two Cabernet Sauvignons at Southbrook spends 18 months in French oak barrels (50% new oak). If any grape variety benefited the most from the hot 2020 vintage, it is Cab Sauvignon, especially in the warm Four Mile Creek sub-appellation. We will see some long-lived wines coming from this vintage, especially from the bolder reds. This is a delight on the nose with plump blackberries, black currants, cassis, dark cherries, dried tobacco, and baking spices. It’s built on a solid bed of tannins with thick and pronounced dark berries, kirsch, licorice, earthy accents, cedar, and lovely spices in a mouth-filling style that benefits from racy acidity on a long, long finish. Can cellar 7+ years or more.

Southbrook Estate Witness Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 ($48, 94 points) — The Witness Block cab, named for the vineyard block that stands as a “witness to the winery” right in front of the main facility, spends 18 months in French oak barrels (60% new oak). Such an elegant, yet powerful, Cab Sauv that introduces itself on the nose with an alluring display of saturated blackberries, dark cherries, cocoa, cassis, and fine oak spices. It’s rich, layered, and complex on the palate and shows a melange of black currants, blackberries, crunchy raspberries, cassis, vanilla bean and spice with a sturdy core of ripe tannins all leading to a long, echoing finish bolstered by racy acidity. This is a big wine but is nicely balanced from start to finish. Can cellar 12+ years.

The Poetica Red

Southbrook Poetica Red 2020 ($70, winery now, 96 points) — Poetica wines are only made in the what the winemakers feel are the best vintages for the style of wine they want to present to consumers. There was no Poetica Red in 2017 or 2018, and Hogan is still assessing the potential for 2021 while 2022 is a definite yes. The winemaking team, now led by Hogan (previously Sperling), carefully chooses the best grapes from the estate’s biodynamic and organic vineyards, and then picks from the best barrels for the Poetica. The 2020 blend is 58.4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29.5% Merlot, 6.9% Petit Verdot and the rest Cabernet Franc. Clusters were sorted and whole berries were fermented in micro-cuvee lots in open top new French oak barrels. Post-processing, the lots were returned to the barrels for aging. After 18 months, individual barrels were tasted, assessed, and blended. After pressing, the lots were returned to the barrels for 13 months of aging. The blended wine received an additional five months in oak barrels (30% new oak). I tasted this wine with Hogan at the winery un-decanted and then tasted it again 24 hours later and then 24 hours after that to get a more complete picture of where it is going. I can confidently tell you; it’s going to the moon! This is a stunner of a wine. It has an intoxicating nose of brambly raspberries, black currants, dark cherries, jammy cassis, violets, blackberries, sweet cedar, and an elegant array of spices. It’s mouth-filling on the palate with a generous array of ripe red and dark berries, grippy tannic structure, subtle savoury notes, gorgeous fine oak spices that all comes at you in layer after layer. It has remarkable balance for such a young wine, and a vibrant, finessed finish that lasts for minutes. It shows incredible restraint and elegance for such a blockbuster of a wine. You need this in your cellar, but find a cool, dark place and forget a bottle or two for 20+ years. Your children will thank you later.

The poetry on the bottle is from Sarah Slean’s Your Wish Is My Wish

I hear beauty crying in her sleep
So I bent for one more kiss
And her tears will turn and twist
We make bliss to end all bliss
And all time