By Allison Slute
For those that haven’t been following the news in recent weeks, there is a “dumb” trade war on going between the United States and Canada (and sadly, many other countries around the world).
In response to the proposed tariffs, Ontario, along with many other Canadian provinces, has made the decision to remove all U.S. wines, beers and spirits from retail stores. With no California wines gracing the shelves of the LCBO, Ontarians have become increasingly patriotic and are turning to locally produced wines to quench their thirst.
Cabernet Franc is the single most important red variety in Ontario. Not only is it the most widely planted, but it is cold hardy and can consistently ripen in all vintages producing a diverse range of styles.
It was Ontario Cabernet Franc that captured my attention many moons ago and ultimately inspired my lifelong passion for this grape, so I have a special place in my heart for the expressions of Cabernet Franc produced in my backyard. On the heels of some exceptional vintages for the red Bordeaux varieties, notably 2020, 2022 and 2023, there is currently a diverse selection of Cabernet Francs from Ontario that are available direct from wineries.
So, here are a dozen delicious, thoughtfully made Ontario Cabernet Francs that are worthy of your attention and hard-earned dollars. (Listed below by price in ascending order.)
Vineland Estates Winery, 2022 Cabernet Bo-Teek Vineyard, VQA Niagara Escarpment ($24.70+HST, 13.5% abv)
From the winery’s acclaimed Bo-Teek Bo-Teek Vineyard (https://cabfrancchronicles.substack.com/p/exploring-bo-teek-vineyard-niagara), the 2022 vintage is 98% Cabernet Franc and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon and sees aging in older neutral oak. The 2022 vintage was an excellent one for Cabernet Franc, and the warm and sunny character of the vintage leaps out of the glass. Richly fruited and fresh, with the grape’s noble herbaceous notes of cedar leaves, cedar wood, bay leaf and forest floor working in tandem with the mixed, dark berried fruits. Exquisite, finely knit, cashmere-like tannins are enveloped by the plush, fruits interwoven with subtle warming spices like nutmeg, allspice and cardamom. Persistent in flavour, yet finishing light on its feet, not only is this wine a superb value, but it is a deeply satisfying and immensely pleasurable expression of Niagara Cabernet Franc.
13th Street Winery, 2023 Cabernet Franc, VQA Niagara Peninsula ($24.95+HST, 13.5% abv)
Ever since 13th Street began producing their entry-level Cabernet Franc using 100% stainless steel, I have been a big fan of this wine. Winemaker and French-native Jean-Pierre Colas “gets” Cabernet Franc in this style, and I think the 2023 vintage that was just recently released is their best yet. This is a plush, juicy, Loire-inspired Cabernet Franc. Classic, fruit-forward with just the right amount of soft herbal undertones (basil, tarragon) peeking through the fleshy berried fruits. Delicately spiced on the palate, it is lively, approachable, with velvety tannins, with superb concentration and length at this price point. This ticks all the boxes for me.
Back 10 Cellars, 2022 “The Big Leap” Cabernet Franc, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore ($26.33+HST, 13% abv.)
One of Ontario’s original boutique wineries, Back 10 Cellars has always made thoughtful expressions of Cabernet Franc, and one of the rare examples of Cabernet Franc that is aged in 100% American oak (about 25% new). And the oak is beautifully managed here. The wine opens with terrific clarity, freshness and purity of fruit, with a mix of bright red cherry and plum, followed by cedar leaves, marjoram, rosemary and tobacco. The palate is plush and exotically spiced with notes of star anise, fenugreek, chilli flake and black pepper. Its juicy, vibrant acidity and the fine, cotton-textured tannins are nicely balance by a beautiful integrity of the fruit in the middle palate and light-handed oak profile. Harmonious, structured, approachable, convivial — a winner.
Tawse, 2020 “Growers Blend” Cabernet Franc, VQA Niagara Peninsula ($26.50+HST, 13% abv)
This Cabernet Franc is likely one of Ontario’s most deliciously reliable expressions of Cabernet Franc. Made by the late Paul Pender, his approach with Cabernet Franc was one of those that made me fall in love with this grape, and this 2020 is in a terrific place at the moment. Lifted and layered, fresh and floral, it is red fruit-driven with a mix of sweet-tart red berries, and a distinctive herbal profile (savoury, nettle, bay leaf) that works seamlessly with the fruit. The palate is perfumed and spiced with dried violets, dried dill seed, coriander and white peppercorns. Focused, vibrant acidity and percale cotton tannins work together to create an elegantly structured, savoury, gastronomic wine that will work seamlessly on a table.
Malivoire, 2022 Cabernet Franc, VQA Twenty Mile Bench ($28.00+HST, 12.5% abv.)
Malivoire is best known for being Ontario’s leading producer of Gamay — a grape that they have championed since inception. In recent years they have begun to dabble in Cabernet Franc, both as single varietal wines and in their avant-garde Analog blend, and they are a producer I continue to go back to for their fruit-forward, elegant expressions of the variety. Their 2022 Cabernet Franc from the Cascade Vineyard is bright, juicy and extremely inviting, with sweet-tart fruits and a nice forest-y edge (cedar leaves, moss, wildflower) mixing with herbs and delicate spices. The wine’s soft, silky tannins and lip-smacking acidity work together with the fruit to give a fresh, energetic, Loire-esque Cabernet Franc that is aromatically complex and dangerously drinkable.
Pillitteri Estates Winery, 2020 Cabernet Franc, VQA Niagara-on-the-Lake ($28.00+HST, 13.5% abv.)
You never forget your first! I had the pleasure of working at Pillitteri Estates at the beginning of my career, and their Cabernet Franc will always have a special place in my heart. From the family’s estate vineyards and aged in French oak (10% new), this is textbook Niagara Cabernet Franc. A mix of red and dark berried fruits mingle with a deeply savoury, earthy profile of cured tobacco, cedar leaves and wood, rosemary and bay leaf. The palate draws you in with added notes of sandalwood and nutmeg, with vivacious acidity and finely woven, well-managed tannins. Richly textured, smooth, deeply satisfying, this reminds me of “old school” Niagara Cabernet Franc at its best. Authentic, nostalgic, always a winner.
Therianthropy, 2021 “The Negociant” Cabernet Franc, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore ($29.95+HST, 12.5% abv.)
Cabernet Franc has been an important part of Therianthropy Wines since the project was launched by David Eiberg and his wife Anastatia Phillips in 2018. Their “Negociant” is their flagship expression of Cabernet Franc, and this wine is always sourced from a single-vineyard site. The 2021 came from the Grimbsy Hillside Vineyard in eastern end of the Lincoln Lakeshore appellation. From not the easiest vintage for Cabernet Franc, they knocked it out of the park with this wine. Juicy, fresh, small-berried fruits (cranberry, pomegranate, red currant) dance on the palate with an equally lively mix of lemon verbena, peony, nettle, cardamom and pink peppercorn. Energetic and mouth-watering acidity works with the soft, plush tannins that have delicately chalky profile on the finish. Perfumed, “digeste,” lacey and floral, this Cabernet Franc packs plenty of depth and intrigue in its 12.5% alcohol frame.
Reif Estate Winery, 2020 Cabernet Franc Reserve, VQA Niagara River ($30.15+HST, 13% abv.)
One of Ontario’s oldest wineries, Reif Estate Winery has been an institution in Niagara since they put down roots (literally and figuratively!) along the Niagara River in 1977. Exhibiting a very classic, “Niagara” Cabernet Franc profile, the palate is succulent, with red fruits and florals, with added layers of forest-y notes, cured tobacco, nettle and dried herbs. Impeccably balanced and restrained, it has lively acidity that weaves its way across the palate with the wine’s seamless, fine silky tannins that have just the right amount of polish on the finish. Before trying this wine, I had not had a Reif Cabernet Franc in some time, and I immediately went out and bought more. Graceful, with plenty of depth and persistence, and an absolutely incredible value for the quality. This wine will always reward in the cellar, so tuck a few away if you can!
Liebling Wines, 2022 Cabernet Franc, VQA Four Mile Creek ($32.00+HST, 12.5% abv.)
The Oppenlaeder family has been growing grapes in the Niagara Peninsula for generations, and Liebling Wines is the family’s new project headed up by sisters Jessica and Alison. True believers in working with the varieties that excel in Ontario, this 2022 is their inaugural vintage of Cabernet Franc from the family’s home vineyard. Lifted and herbal, this an earthy and ethereal expression of Cabernet Franc, with plenty of small, crunchy-berried fruits (red currant, lingonberry, wild strawberry) mixing with delicate notes of capsicum, thyme, savoury, pine and cedar. Brisk acidity combines with soft, velvety tannins that have just the right amount of firmness on the finish. The spice-forward palate pulls together this elegantly styled, almost Pinot-esque Cabernet Franc that is packaged in a lean, focused, medium-bodied frame.
Southbrook Vineyards, 2020 “Laundry Vineyard” Cabernet Franc, VQA Lincoln Lakeshore ($33.41+HST, 13.5% abv.)
The Laundry Vineyard is one of Ontario’s “grand cru”-level vineyards for Cabernet Franc. The vines are some of the oldest in Ontario (planted in the late 1980s) and it has been a “lighthouse” expression of Niagara Cabernet Franc since I began my career some 18 years ago. Southbrook has been vinifying the fruit from this parcel since 2020, and this wine totally over-delivers for the price point. Pure, fragrant and savoury, the wine offers fleshy, sweet red fruits that are supported by a mix of soft herbs (basil, sage) and enticing spicy florals. The palate is deliciously spicy with a melange of peppercorns and baking spices, and the plush aromatics are balanced by fresh acidity and supple, silky tannins. Voluminous but restrained, this is a serious Cabernet Franc that oozes finesse.
Drea’s 2022 Cabernet Franc, VQA Niagara Peninsula ($35.15+HST, 13% abv.)
Daughter of Ontario wine royalty, the late Karl Kaiser, co-founder of Inniskillin, Andrea Kaiser started making wine under her own label in 2020. Her Cabernet Franc is an homage to her father’s legacy and his belief in Cabernet Franc’s potential as a star variety in Ontario. The newly release 2022 is a knockout. Quintessential Niagara Cabernet Franc, it is brimming with dark berried fruits and classic notes of rosemary, cedar wood, sweet, cured tobacco, with an added delicate menthol-esque note reminiscent of boxwood or eucalyptus. Enveloping fruit, layered with cleansing acidity and beautifully managed velvety tannins, this Cabernet Franc is elegant, contemplative, thoughtful, and effortlessly enjoyable.
Trius, 2020 “Red Shale” Cabernet Franc, VQA Four Mile Creek ($58.00+HST, 13.9% abv.)
Made by one of Ontario’s great champions of Cabernet Franc, Craig McDonald has a way with this variety and his Red Shale always impresses. From the very warm 2020 vintage, this wine defies conception that Ontario can’t produce concentrated, show-stopping red wines, while doing so in the most Franc-forward manner. Deep, plush, dark-fruited notes are superbly balanced by complex herbaceous notes of mint, sage, cedar leaves, fresh tobacco and violets. The wine’s cleansing acidity and its most scrumptious sweet-fruited core are perfectly in balance with its gorgeous, cashmere-like tannins that envelop the long, exotically spiced finish. Generous, contemporary, supremely elegant, and unmistakably Cabernet Franc, this will reward with time in the cellar but is deeply satisfying to drink now.
About Allison Slute
Allison Slute’s career in wine spans over 17 years in both Canada and the U.S. in a variety of roles in sales and marketing, including export sales, public relations, education, social media marketing, and sales distribution and management. Her longtime love of a single grape — Cabernet Franc — inspired her project Cab Franc Chronicles (https://www.instagram.com/cabfrancchronicles/), which she officially launched in the fall of 2020. Through her well-researched, in-depth content, she explores and analyzes the terroirs and expressions of Cabernet Franc from all over the world. Allison earned her WSET Diploma (Level 4) in the spring of 2022, and she also holds her Certified Sommelier accreditation through the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers, a member of the International Sommelier Guild in Paris.
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