By Rick VanSickle
Lovers of perfectly aged Niagara wines along with a tidy collection of older international wines will be thrilled with the Vintages collection coming to the LCBO on Saturday.
Also in this report: The sensational wines from 15th century Tuscan wine producer Vignamaggio.
The bi-weekly New Release Collection of wines at Vintages stores features a well-rounded selection of 13 wines already perfectly cellared for you featuring Flat Rock Cellars Nadja’s Vineyard Riesling 2016 and Stratus Vineyards White 2007 (both from Niagara) along with aged gems from Bordeaux, Chile, Spain, Italy and France. These are wines to drink now while enjoying the intriguing nuances age brings to these wines.
We have recommendations from the release, including the Stratus White 2007 and Spain’s Urbina Gran Reserva Especial 2006, as well as the Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet/Merlot 2020, which could very well be included in the “cellared” section.
Here’s what we can recommend:
Stratus White 2007 ($59, original review published July 17, 2011, 92 points) — What a thrilling flagship white blend. The nose shows lemon-lime, honey, star fruit, pineapple, coconut macaroon, integrated spice notes and hints of fresh summer herbs. Releasing it this late has allowed the wine to integrate beautifully with harmonious oak tones that don’t overpower the fruit. It shows a mélange of fruit on the palate that’s fleshy without being flabby, substantive yet graceful with pleasurable grapefruit, lemon, honey, melon, tropical fruits, spice, and cream. Just a lovely and exotic treat. Please note that was originally tasted in 2011 and has not been retasted. Expect further development and more tertiary notes and likely ready to consume sooner rather than later.
Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Cabernet/Merlot 2020 ($48, 94 points) — The wine was aged in French and American oak barrels, 40% new, for 18 months. What a beautiful, full-bodied red from the 2020 vintage. It has an inviting, expressive nose of black raspberries, dark cherries, ripe plums, cocoa, cassis, and cedary/perfume notes with rich spice box accents. It’s dense and juicy on the palate with a firm tannic backbone that displays an array of mature red berries, blackberry preserves, anise, smoky cedar plank, mulled herbs and toasty spices that are all carried through the long, finessed finish. This is still evolving and cellaring is recommended. It will keep improving through 2039. Buy, hold and be blown away!
Urbina Reserva Especial Rioja 2006 ($42, 94 points) — It’s extremely rare that we see a wine that’s nearly 20 years old come to Vintages stores, but when we do it’s more often than not from Spain’s Rioja region. The 2006 Riserva Especial comes to Vintages shelves perfectly aged for the wine lover who prefers softer, more mature red wines. This is a traditionally made Rioja from the cooler Cuzcurrita zone made from 90% Tempranillo and 5% each of Graciano and Mazuelo. It’s aged for three years in a combination of French and American oak casks followed by two years in stainless steel. What a special wine! The intriguing nose shows mature notes of damp leaves and mulch, followed by stewed strawberries, kirsch, prunes, black tea, dried tobacco, leather, vanilla bean and baking spices. It’s tamed, soft and elegant on the palate and likely just now cruising to the end of its evolution. The tannins have melted into a melange of black currants, strawberry jam, plums, cherry brandy, dried figs, licorice, leather, and dried herbs. The mid-palate introduces charred cedar, black tea tannins, and toasted vanilla bean on a silky, smooth finish with diminished acidity. This will have great appeal for lovers of mature wines, a real treat for enjoying now.
Other Niagara wines released but not reviewed by Wines in Niagara:
• Tawse Spark Limestone Ridge Sparkling Riesling 2020 ($15 for 375 mL)
• Cave Sparing Estate Pinot Gris 2022 ($28)
• Megalomaniac Narcissist Riesling 2024 ($20)
• Flat Rock Cellars Nadja’s Vineyard Riesling 2016 ($45)
• Jackson-Triggs Grand Reserve Meritage 2022 ($30)
• Peller Private Reserve Pinot Noir 2022 ($30)
• Ravine Gamay Noir 2022 ($23)
The historic wines from Vignamaggio
Vignamaggio is a historic estate located between Greve and Panzano in Chianti, with uninterrupted winemaking activity since 1404. Today it farms 400 hectares of vineyards, olive groves, forests, and cultivated land, where wine production is part of a broader vision rooted in biodiversity and sustainability.
The estate is a founding member of the Chianti Classico Consortium and produces wines that express the full potential of the denomination – including Chianti Classico DOCG Annata, Riserva, and Gran Selezione – as well as single varietal Toscana IGT labels.
With seven centuries of documented history, Vignamaggio is one of the oldest agricultural estates in Italy. From the 15th century onwards, vineyards have always been a part of the estate’s agricultural landscape and wine production has spanned ages, properties, and generations. From the Gherardini family to the Renaissance-era Gherardi family; from Count Bino Sanminiatelli to Atty. Gianni Nunziante; and to the current ownership of Patrice Taravella.
Rising exactly halfway between Florence and Siena, Vignamaggio is located in Alta Val di Greve, stretching between Greve and Panzano in Chianti, the historic heart of Chianti Classico. The Alta Valle della Greve is considered one of the cradles of Sangiovese, the expression of a winemaking tradition that stands proud of its roots and sure of its quality.
While Wines in Niagara is hyper-focused on Niagara and Ontario wines, I do sometimes venture into those international wines that get our full attention. When offered to taste a half dozen wines from the historic Vignamaggio estate, I jumped at the chance.
The wines were sent by courier via Tuscany by a third party. No prices or availability in Ontario were supplied and attempts to find the information proved difficult. The wines were originally brought to Ontario by H.H.D. Imports, which was purchased by Family Wine Merchants (owned by Henry of Pelham). After a call to FWM, I was told they don’t represent Vignamaggio wines.
One of the wines reviewed below — the Cabernet Franc di Vignamaggio IGT — is listed on the LCBO site, but I don’t know at this moment how consumers can purchase these amazing wines otherwise. When I do find out I will update this post.
All prices are taken from the Vignamaggio website and are converted from euros to Cdn dollars for the purposes on my reviews.
The wines
Vignamaggio Terre de Prenzano Chianti Classico DOCG 2021 ($30, 91 points) — This 100% Sangiovese is aged in large format oak vats. It has a perfumed nose of lavender, sandalwood, wild raspberries, fresh cherries, blueberries, plums, a touch of leather and spice. It’s pure and concentrated on the palate with a plush texture to go with a melange of red and dark berries, black licorice, mint, woodsy notes and big vanilla-tinged spices on a lifted, long finish.
Vignamaggio Gherardino Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2021 ($38, 92 points) — This Riserva Chianti Classico is dedicated to the forefather of the family that built Vignamaggio in the 15th century. It’s made from a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot and aged for 18 months in oak. There are lovely woodsy/tobacco notes on the nose followed by brambly red berries, ripe plums, violets, savoury accents, anise and toasty vanilla and spice. It’s mouth-filling with grippy tannins and power and reveals such an array of ripe and meaty red and dark berries, black licorice, charred cedar, underbrush, savoury notes and toasty vanilla bean and spice. It’s big, and will reward with cellaring, but maintains freshness and poise through the long finish.
Vignamaggio Monna Lisa Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2017 ($62, 94 points) — The Gran Selezione is only produced in the best years, with grapes from the farm’s prime vineyards: the Prato vineyards (west); Solatio (south-west); and Querceto (west/south-west). There is 5% Cabernet Sauvignon tipped in and it’s aged first in French oak barriques for 18-20 months and then in larger barrels, at least until 30 months has passed total. Vignamaggio’s Renaissance villa was created by the Gherardini family, whose fame is associated with the legendary Mona Lisa. Folklore and history become intertwined in the centuries that follow: Via Maggio in Florence (where Mona Lisa was born) could be confused with the similar-sounding Vignamaggio. This, along with the landscape depicted in Leonardo’s painting, had many wrongly believe that the woman in the painting had been born here. This is the reason why, even today, the Mona Lisa is associated with Vignamaggio. The enticing nose has a floral entry with lifted oak perfume followed by dark cherries, cassis, black currants, purple plums, black olives, Cuban tobacco leaf and toasted vanilla bean and spice. It’s mouth-coating on the palate and highly structure with ripe tannins holding the melange of red and dark berries together with the tapenade, earthy/savoury notes and minty herbs following closely behind. There is elegance and rich spice notes on the long, fresh finish. Can cellar through 2040.
Vignamaggio Cabernet Franc di Vignamaggio IGT 2017 ($96, Vintages, 95 points) — This IGT, the first of three wines reviewed here with that designation, is made from estate Cabernet Franc grapes sourced from vines over 40 years old and were rediscovered in the Solatio (Southwest) and Orto (East) vineyards in the 1990s. It’s aged in oak barriques from 24 months. Like most of these personable wines from Vignamaggio, there is a commonality with the lifted lavender on the nose, a nice perfume entry that leads to kirsch, jammy cassis, black currants, plums, smoky/savoury notes, elevated vanilla bean and spice. It’s substantive on the palate with rich dark fruits, dark cherries, aniseed, black currant jam, earthy/savoury notes and cocoa on a silky-smooth frame and more elegant spices through the long, lifted finish. Lots of life left in this fabulous wine and call cellar through 2040.
Vignamaggio Merlot di Santa Maria IGT 2017 ($72, 93 points) — After over 25 years of cultivating Merlot at Vignamaggio, the estate decided to dedicate a cru to this variety, yielding what the estate calls “the utmost expression of the extraordinary Santa Maria a Petriolo Vineyard,” located near the Villa and enjoying western exposure. The nose shows the fruitiness of Merlot, but still carries that intriguing floral note to kick things off. A flood of dark cherries, cassis, purple plums, vanilla bean, mocha and elegant spice notes follow. It’s rich and refined on the palate, with firm but ripe tannins that highlight the kirsch, anise, currants, blackberries, cedar, vanilla toast and spice. The finish is layered, finessed, and the wine begs to be cellared up to 15 years to tame those wild tannins. The rewards will be great.
Vignamaggio Sangiovese de Vitigliano IGT 2016 ($70, 94 points) — This IGT wine is made from 100% Sangiovese grapes and aged for about one year in French barriques and another year in large barrels. An enthralling expression of Sangiovese that begins with cherry/kirsch bomb on the nose with prevalent lavender, meaty notes, dense dark plums, earthy/savoury notes, cassis jam, red currants, mocha and toasted vanilla spices. It makes a rich and powerful statement on the palate with weight and grippy tannins enveloping succulent red berries, juicy plums, anise, eucalyptus, earthy notes, leather and oozing vanilla-tined spices all on a lifted and long finish. This will bright pleasure for a decade or two in the cellar. Blockbuster Sangiovese.
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