By Rick VanSickle
You could say that Southbrook’s Casey Hogan took a crooked path on his way to becoming the estate’s winemaker — just read his bio.
“Never one to say ‘no’ to pizza and pints, I am a baker-turned-engineering-physicist-dropout-turned-butcher-turned-sommelier-turned-winemaker,” he proclaims on LinkedIn. And it doesn’t end there.
“Since taking a couple of sharp turns in my career path, I have punished himself with several wine-focussed accreditations. Starting with an interest in wine with a sommelier certification from Algonquin college, I continued studies through the Wine and Spirits Education Trust, the Wine Scholar Guild, the Court of Master Sommeliers and finally, Brock University. I completed my BSc in oenology and viticulture (honours) with ‘first class standing’ at Brock. My research thesis would later be published: The Impact of Wine Style and Sugar Addition in the liqueur d’expedition (dosage) Solutions on Traditional Method Sparkling Wine Composition.”
Hogan. above, has worked in wineries in Margaret River, Central Otago, Willamette Valley, the Okanagan Valley and the Niagara Peninsula. And he is now currently making wine for one of Niagara’s top wineries as well as doing custom crush work for multiple brands from conventional, organic, and biodynamically farmed vineyards.
Hogan had a first taste of Southbrook Vineyards 12 years ago. It was a short, four-month stint in 2013 but the winemaker at the time, Ann Sperling, left such an impression on Hogan that he pursued the industry through education and experience before reuniting with Sperling both as a harvest intern at Sperling Vineyards in the Okanagan Valley in 2014 and after many stops along the way, was hired as Southbrook’s assistant winemaker in 2019.
“Her style is my style,” Hogan, above, explained in a previous post on Wines in Niagara. “I’ve learned a lot from her, Peter (Gamble, Sperling’s husband) and Thomas (Bachelder Wines). My style is based on them, they are my mentors.”
Hogan took over the role as head winemaker at the end of 2021 and he has followed the style of wines that has served Southbrook well over the many tiers being produced there since the winery was established by Bill Redelmeier on Niagara Stone Road. The first 2,000 cases were made by renowned winemaker Derek Barnett.
Southbrook is a certified organic and biodynamic and is the first vineyard in Canada to be certified both Organic by Ecocert, Biodynamic by Demeter and Regenerative Organic Certified by Regenerative Organic Alliance.
“Biodiversity is key to our viticulture. The more life in our soil, in our skies, near our vines, the better the wine. Terroir is not only about a place and its climate – it’s also about the intricate web of life that deliver nutrients to our grapes and, in turn, the best flavours and aromas to our wine,” said Redelmerier.
Organic/biodynamic farming ensures a healthy vineyard now and into the future, but it doesn’t automatically mean your wines will taste any better than the wines of your neighbours. That’s where Hogan comes in, following an all-star roster of Southbrook winemakers doing good things from a healthy, thriving vineyard.
I sat down recently with Hogan to taste through a healthy portion of current and upcoming wines for this report. We tasted through the Triomphe tier, sourced from estate and trusted growers’ grapes, single-vineyard Laundry Vineyard wines, Whimsy! wines from partner organic growers, the Estate tier wines all from the Southbrook Vineyard, and the flagship Poetica tier reserved for the top red blend and Chardonnay in only the best vintages.
Here is what I liked (note all wines are available now unless otherwise noted):
The sparkling wine
Southbrook Triomphe Sparkling ($30, 90 points) — The Triomphe Sparkling, all from the 2023 vintage but labeled non-vintage, is 100% Vidal made in the charmat method. It’s a refreshing and easy to like sparkling wine with a nose of citrus, melon, peaches and pear with a moderate bead in the glass. The bubbles are livelier on the palate with an array of orchard fruits, citrus and a touch of sweetness that’s countered by sizzling acidity on the finish.
The Rieslings
Southbrook Laundry Vineyard Riesling 2021 and 2023 ($30, 2021 current vintage, 2023 coming soon, 92 points for 2021, 93 points for 2023) — The cooler vintage 2021 Riesling from the Laundry Vineyard in the Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation was left to hang until November to achieve a higher degree of ripeness for the single vineyard designation. It has a bright, lifted nose of saline, white peach, fresh cut lemons, bergamot and subtle flinty notes on both the nose and palate. It has lovely texture on the palate with notes of yellow apples, lemon tart, peaches and stony/flinty minerality on a crisp, vibrant finish. The 2023 vintage was harvested over multiple picks and was wild fermented in a mix of stainless steel and neutral oak. This vintage shows a bit more of the appellation’s unique terroir with opening notes of wet stones and flint followed by bright citrus, apples, nectarine and pear skin. It’s rich, silky and textured on the palate with a melange of orchard fruits, lemon verbena, flinty notes and mouth-watering acidity on the clean finish. Can cellar the 2021 to 2031 and the 2023 to 2034.
The Chardonnays
Southbrook Triomphe Chardonnay 2023 ($27, 91 points) — The Triomphe Chardonnay is wild fermented and aged in French oak (20% new) for 10 months. It has a concentrated and pure nose of pear/quince, apples, apricots, and integrated vanilla and spice notes. The flinty notes on the palates are joined by ripe orchard fruits, and a touch of spice on a luxurious, lifted finish. Can cellar through 2029.
Southbrook Estate Chardonnay 2023 ($45, released in June, 93 points) — The soon-to-be released 2023 estate Chardonnay is also aged in French oak (20% new) for 10 months. This leans toward a more elegant style with notes of saline and wet stones on the nose followed by integrated pear/apple fruits, lemon and well-integrated spices. It’s more extracted on the palate and a silky texture to go with yellow apples, bergamot, Bosc pear, chalky/saline notes, spices and a lifted, long finish. Very nice Chardo, which can be cellared through 2032.
Note: We also tasted a barrel sample of 2023 Estate Chardonnay (not yet labeled) that caught the eye of Hogan as a potential Poetica wine, which would be the first Chardonnay in that top tier position since 2016. It’s still evolving and shows lovely richness, weight, texture and freshness on the finish. One to watch for. We also went back to the 2016 Poetica Chardonnay and it was gorgeous with layers and layers of fruit balanced by racy acidity and finesses. If you have some, start enjoying it now!
The Rosé
Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc Rosé 2023 ($24, 89 points) — The nose shows a medley of fresh red berries, herbs and just a hint of aniseed. It’s perfectly dry with fresh picked raspberries, cherries and red currants with a lip-smacking vibrant, crisp finish.
The Whimsy! Pinot Noirs
Southbrook Whimsy! Pinot Noir Barrel 1 and Barrel 2 2022 (wine club only, released this summer) — We don’t usually review wine club bottles because of their limited and exclusive availability, but this side-by-side Pinot Noir duo was intriguing. Winemaker Hogan and assistant winemaker Emily Lacey each picked their two favourite barrels of estate Pinot Noir and made them the same way — wild fermented and no new oak for aging. “The point was to create the best representation of Pinot from we thought were the best that year,” said Hogan. “It was a fun exercise for us to do.” Barrel One was made by Hogan and was quite perfumed and pretty on the nose with red berries and chalky minerality. It has a bit more concentration of Morello cherries, black raspberries, subtle spices and silky-smooth texture on a vibrant, long finish. Barrel Two from Lacey was a little shy on the nose but with swirling it opened up to riper red berries and integrated spice notes. It has good concentration of berries, a touch more tannin structure and mouth-watering acidity on the lifted finish. Hard to pick the winner here, but club members should have fun deciding what they like best.
Triomphe red wines
Southbrook Triomphe Merlot 2021 ($28, 91 points) — All the Triomphe red wines are wild fermented with 100% French oak (in a combination of new and used barrels) aging for 18 months with the grapes sourced from the estate and trusted organic growers. The Merlot is highly aromatic on the nose with pure red berries, cassis, anise and fine oak spices. The palate reveals good concentration of red and dark berries, with earthy notes, spice and some structure on the vibrant, long finish. Can cellar through 2032.
Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Franc 2021 ($27, 92 points) — A varietally correct Niagara Cabernet Franc with ripe red berries, plums, some integrated herbs, floral notes and spice. It’s layered with a smooth texture, ripe cherries and raspberries, licorice, some smoky accents and toasted spice with mouth-watering acidity keeping it lively through the finish. Can cellar to 2032.
Southbrook Triomphe Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($30, 91 points) — This is all from estate fruit and is bottled unfined with light filtration. The grapes were fully destemmed and fermented wild in eight-ton oak fermenters and left on skins for 31 days. After pressing, the wine was aged in French oak barrels for 18 months before careful barrel selection and blending. Quite fruit-laden on the nose with intense cassis, blackberries and Morello cherries with integrated spice notes. The palate shows firm structure and more meat on the bones with a melange of dark berries, polished tannins, more evident spice and a lifted, long finish. Can cellar through 2033.
Estate red wines
Southbrook Estate Merlot 2021 ($45, released this summer, 92 points) — The estate series is focused on the organic/biodynamic fruit grown at the farm and from there barrel selection. The nose is sublime with perfumed notes of red berries, black currants, a touch of anise and lovely, lifted oak spices. Fairly firm structure on the palate with big, ripe cherries and raspberries, some earthy notes, a touch of cassis and a long, echoing finish. Can cellar through 2034.
Southbrook Estate Cabernet Franc 2021 ($45, released this summer, 93 points) — Another elegant red from the estate series with a delicate nose of brambly black raspberries, dark cherries, herbs, graphite and spices. The tannins are polished on the palate with the full range of red berries, crunchy cranberries, some anise/licorice, integrated earthy/savoury notes, fine oak spices and a smooth, vibrant finish. Can cellar through 2032.
Southbrook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($45, released this summer, 91 points) — The Cab Sauv is a bit shy at the moment, more so than the other Bordeaux variety wines in the Estate series, but swirl it and a lovely array of blackberries, cassis and black currants with some earthy notes and fine oak spice emerges. It’s tightly structured with grippy tannins, integrated dark berries, anise, earthy/savoury notes, toasted vanilla and spice and mouth-watering acidity keeping it lively through the finish. Can cellar to 2034.
Southbrook Estate Petit Verdot 2021 ($45, released this summer, 92 points) — This has an elegant, floral nose of lavender, dried herbs red and dark berries and fine oak spices. Shows more concentration on the palate with integrated red berries, plums, blueberries, herbaceous notes and spice with a long, vibrant finish. Can cellar through 2032.
Southbrook Estate Syrah 2023 ($55, released in September, 93 points) — This Estate Syrah is the first made at Southbrook since 2016 from a tiny 1.5-acre vineyard block. It was aged in half French oak and half amphora for 15 months. Such a lifted nose of wild blueberries, boysenberries, black olives, violets, black currants, black peppercorns, meaty/earthy notes and sweet oak spices. It’s more profound on the palate with grilled meat notes, a touch of reduction, blueberry pie, red and black peppercorns, bay leaves, a plush texture, baking spices and a lifted, finessed finish. A really nice Syrah for drinking through 2034.
Poetica red
Southbrook Poetica 2022 ($70, released later this year, 94 points) — The blend for the flagship red at Southbrook is 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc. It spends 18 months in French oak, with 25% new barrels. “We are trying to make a very ageable Bordeaux style red wine,” Hogan said. To make the Poetica, the winemaking team carefully chooses the best grapes from the estate’s biodynamic and organic vineyards, and then picks from the best barrels. Such an intriguing nose of ripe cassis, blackberries, cherry/kirsch, charred cedar, violets, a touch of earth and generous sweet spice notes. It’s already nicely integrated on the palate with firm structure and ripe tannins married to ripe dark and red berries, subtle licorice, earthy/savoury notes, elegant spices and remarkably balanced for a wine that will improve for 15 years or more. The vibrant, lifted finish lasts for minutes. One of Niagara’s top red blends that will continue to integrate and get better through 2040 and maybe beyond.
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