Niagara Wine Reviews

Winemaker Bradshaw leaves Pillitteri on a high note

The new Exclamation Chardonnay.

By Rick VanSickle

It was a bitter-sweet wine release at Pillitteri Estates Winery.

Sweet because it was the unveiling of the new Exclamation line of wines that included some brilliant 2007 reds, a 2006 Chardonnay and an interesting 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon.

The new Exclamation Chardonnay.
The new Exclamation Chardonnay.

Bitter because it was the swansong for the incredibly talented winemaker, Dr. Marc P. Bradshaw, who is parting ways with Pillitteri this month.

Bradshaw is leaving on a positive up note with the release of his greatest achievement, the new Exclamation wines. These “reserve, classified” wines represent the very best of what Pillitteri does and will only be made in vintages that are of the highest quality.

The new label for these reserve wines is a stylized rendition of one of the 23 hanging stainless steel chairs in the barrel cellar of the winery, a reminder that these wines spend a significant amount of time aging in the wooden barrels of the cellar.

The new label is the same for each wine, with a back label that explains what the wine is all about. But, each wine comes in a different-shaped bottle, some of which are specifically designed for the series.

The full lineup of the new Exclamation wines.
The full lineup of the new Exclamation wines.

The concept is clever, eye-catching and unique from a marketing standpoint. From a wine standpoint, they are thrilling examples of what Niagara can do in a great vintage.

Pilliterri is going to miss Bradshaw’s wild and crazy winemaking skills (the man made 13 different icewines in one vintage! A new world record). He brought a lot to the table of the family winery and there seemed to be a good push and pull relationship with Charlie Pillitteri. That job now falls to new winemaker, Aleksandar Kolundzic.

Where Bradshaw ends up, only time will tell. One thing is certain, wherever he goes good things will happen.

Here’s some tasting notes from the Exclamation series of wine now available for sale only at the winery (the 2007 Merlot was previously reviewed):

Closeup of the funky new label.
Closeup of the funky new label.

Pillitteri Exclamation Barrel Fermented Chardonnay 2006 ($23, 4 stars) — Creamy, charred oak, tropical fruits, citrus and vanilla notes on the nose of this Chard that spent two years in French and Hungarian oak barrels. A juicy, vibrant core on the palate to go with caramel cream, citrus, spice and some mineral notes all leading to a long, clean finish.

Pillitteri Exclamation Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($32, 4.5 stars) — The aromas are stunning in the glass but the colour, brilliant red-purple hues, is not like other ’06 reds. That’s because Bradshaw (on the suggestion of Charlie Pillitteri) gave this year-old 2006 wine a soak in freshly crushed 2007 Cabernet grapes and then put the wine back in barrels for another 21 months. The resulting wine is sensational, showing ripe, sweet red fruits, plums, tobacco, vanilla and licorice Allsorts notes all nicely balanced on a long, long finish.

Pillitteri Exclamation Cabernet Franc 2007 ($35, 4.5 stars) — Blackberry and cherry fruits jump from the glass with touches of cigar leaf, roasted coffee bean, spice and oak. Rich red fruits emerge on the palate to go with plush tannins, vanilla, cocoa and an array of spices. A great wine from a great vintage.

Pillitteri Exclamation Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 ($38, 4 stars) — Those who say winemakers in Niagara should shy away from Cabernet Sauvignon ought have a taste of this wine. Yes, it’s a great vintage, but this wine will only be made in great vintages. A wonderful nose of cherry, blackberry, plum, boysenberry, spice and elegant oak tones. Shows raw power in the mouth with cassis, blackberry and spice all working in unison. A nicely balanced wine with firm tannic structure. Built for the cellar.

•••

And two new releases from Coyote’s Run:

Coyote's Run Chardonnay.
Coyote's Run Chardonnay.

Coyote’s Run Red Paw Chardonnay 2009 ($22, 4 stars) — The appellation is Four Mile Creek but it’s the vineyard that’s critical with this brand new wine from four-year-old vines. A new-leaf wine usually shows itself in big, opulent flavours that deliver a great experience right from the get-go but are not built to last for any length of time in the cellar. That’s what you get here with this first effort — a ripe nose of apple-pear fruit backed up by vanilla and oak toast. It’s creamy and lush on the palate and bursting with apple fruit and balancing oak and spice. Lovely wine.

Coyote’s Run Black Paw Chardonnay 2009 ($22, 4.5 stars) — A tighter nose, which is typical for the Black Paw vineyard in all varietals, of soft apple-citrus and stylish oak-spice undertones. This wine is evolving but shows focus, delicate fruit and nice spice and oak chiming in. A more elegant chardonnay that will reward with time in the cellar.

Enjoy!